FORMULATIONS
87
While every effort has been made to reproduce the formulations correctly, The Publisher cannot accept any liability for the information printed. All formulations are presented in good faith, but no warranty as to accuracy of results or suitability for a particular use is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. The formulations are offered solely for consideration by the participating companies.
ADVANCION VEGAN MASCARA
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Water
Propylene Glycol AMPD™ ULTRA PC
B LUVISKOL* K 90 Dermacryl* 79
Powder C Prime Yellow Carnauba Wax T1
Synthetic White Beeswax
Ozokerite Wax INCI NAME Aqua (Water) Propylene Glycol
Aminomethyl Propanediol PVP
Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer Copernica Cerifera Cera
Refined Candellila wax Euphorbia Cerifera Cera Synthetic Beeswax
Paraffin, Cera Microcristallina, Polyethylene, Synthetic Wax
Palm-free Stearic Acid Stearic Acid Cutina* GMS-SE
Glyceryl Stearate SE
D Unipure* Black LC 988 Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499) Unipure* Black LC 902 Carbon Black (CI 77266) Phenoxyethanol
E Microcare* PE 1
P.CC.P.2021.2 SPLR % W/W
q.s.
3.00 0.60
2 2.00 3 2.00 4 4.00 4 4.00 4 4.00
4 2.00 4 3.60
2 2.40 5 8.50 5
1.50 6 1.00
Procedure: Water phase: 1. In a 250 mL beaker for mixing vessel, add ingredients of phase A and heat it to 85°C. Using a stirrer, slowly add phase B while stirring at 400 rpm and maintain heating at 85°C. Check water loss before emulsion, note it for later. After emulsion, add the lost water to empty beaker to rinse residual polymer and pour it into the mascara. Oil phase: Combine all ingredients of phase C in a plastic pot compatible with Speedmixer and heat to 85°C to melt waxes. Add phase D and put the pot in the Speedmixer at 2000 rpm for 1 min. Mascara fabrication process: Add the water phase in the plastic pot and put it in the Speedmixer at 2000 rpm for 1 min. Cool down at 55°C and add E and water loss during heating. Put the pot in the Speedmixer and mix at 2000 rpm for 1 min. Scrape the edge of the pot with a spatula and put the pot in the Speedmixer at 2000 rpm for 1 min. Properties: Appearance: Thick, black emulsion pH:7.6-7.8 Stability:2 months at room temperature and 45°C Viscosity:177,000 cP (Brookfield RVDV-II, spindle 95, 6 rpm, 1 min, 20°C)
Suppliers: 1. Advancion 2. BASF 3. Nouryon 4. Poth Hille 5. Sensient 6. Thor E F Renegrape
G H
C D
Procedure: At RT, in the main beaker, slurry phase B and add to mixing Phase A. Mix for 45 minutes. Once uniform, add Phase C ingredients at RT, one at a time, and mix for 15-30 minutes (until softhance™ mr is dissolved). At RT, add Phase D and mix for 15 minutes until phyteq™ raspberry dissolves. At RT, add Phase E and mix until colour is uniform. Adjust pH to ˜5.0 with 50% citric acid solution. Stop once the pH is adjusted.
Suppliers: 1. Local 2. Ashland 3. BASF 4. Jarchem 5. Merck 6. Sensient
BIONAP
RENEWING FACE MASK PHASE INGREDIENTS
A INCI NAME
Aqua/water Glycerin
B
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate Cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside
Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside
Cetearyl alcohol Squalane
Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan
Illite Kaolin Aqua/water Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Vitis vinifera (grape) juice extract Sodium hydroxide, water (sol. 30%) Cocos Nucifera shell powder
Phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin Tocopherol
Parfum/fragrance
% W/W 22.2 5
0.2 2
1
2 5
0.5 15
5
30 2 5 2 2 1
0.1 q.s.
Procedure: Combine ingredients of phase A and B, separately, and heat up to 75°C. Add phase B to A and homogenize at medium-high speed. Keep under stirring and add phase C. Let the polymer swell. Combine ingredients of phase D and add to phase ABC. Add phase E. Add phase F and check the pH (4.8 -5.2). Add phase G. Add phase H, one ingredient at a time.
ASHLAND SOFT SKIN BODY WASH
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Purified water B natrathix™ bio Xanthan gum
cellulose Glycerin INCI NAME
Water/Aqua Cellulose gum Xanthan gum
Glycerin
C Plantaren* 2000 N UP Decyl Glucoside Sucranov* 810 UP
softhance™ mr conditioning agent
euxyl™ eco 910 pre- servative
phyteq™ raspberry i multifunctional
E Timiron* supersheen MP-1001
FD&C Yellow 08006-J (0.1% sol.)
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Maleated Soybean Oil Glyceryl/ Octyldodecanol Esters (and) Glycerin
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Cymbopogon Flexuosus Leaf Oil (and) Tocopherol
Raspberry Ketone Mica (and) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
FD&C Blue 1 (0.1% sol.) CI 42090 (blue 1) CI 15985 (yellow 6)
www.personalcaremagazine.com CLARIANT
500-10030 SPLR % W/W
1 64.48 2 0.60 1
1
0.60 3.00
3 10.00 4 16.00
2 3.00 2 1.00 2 0.30
5 0.48 6 0.11 6 0.43
NIGHT-IN-THE-FOREST SLEEP POTION PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME A Water Glycerin B Aristoflex Eco T C Plantasens Emulsifier HP49 Beraca CBA
Beraca Cupuaçu Butter Refined
Beraca Brazil Nut Oil Refined
Tocopherol D Celyscence Ethience Protect E Nipaguard SCA
Glycerin, Water, Silybum Marianum Extract
Glycerin, Water, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract
Sorbitan Caprylate, Benzyl Alcohol
1 1
1
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate
Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Passiflora edulis seed oil, Tocopherol
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Tocopherol
Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil, Tocopherol
1 1 1 1 1 Aqua SPLR % W/W
up to 100
3.00 0.40
2.00 3.00 2.00
2.00 0.50 3.00
1.00 1.50
February 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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