36 EMULSIFIERS The high skin tolerance of QSPP was proven
using in vitro and ex vivo tests that evaluated this ingredient’s impact on the skin microbiota commonly found in the face area. In vitro, the growth behaviour of these microorganisms was similar between cultures treated with QSPP versus the control, and there was no effect on the development of pathogenic microorganisms. A complementary ex vivo study was
conducted to assess QSPP’s effect on different groups of bacteria. Skin microbiota sampling was performed on human volunteers using a swab before and after the application of the test products and the results showed that QSPP did not affect the balance or diversity of the volunteers’ facial microbiota. Finally, an additional clinical test was
conducted to determine the protective effect of QSPP. In this study, skin irritation was induced by applying sodium lauryl sulfate patches to the backs of 20 human volunteers. After the removal of these patches, four gels containing either 2% or 5% QSPP, 2% sorbitan laurate, or 2% glyceryl stearate citrate were subsequently applied to the irritated areas, on each volunteer (their back having been divided into four areas to compare the efficacy of the products). Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), a
parameter representative of the barrier protection efficacy, was then measured after 30 minutes, one hour, two hours, and 24 hours. The results confirmed that the formula with 5% QSPP showed superior and quicker efficacy in significantly reducing TEWL compared to the standard emulsifiers and other test product (Figure 1). Due to the structure of the QSPP particles,
this ingredient remains at the surface of the skin and will not destabilize the skin organization, while acting as a barrier against water loss. This is a reason why QSPP has a rebalancing effect on the skin, thus keeping it moisturized all day long. In addition to its capacity to preserve the
microbiota and reinforce the skin barrier, QSPP offers another benefit directly related to its composition. Starches are well-known for their absorption properties and usually serve as mattifiers and sebum absorbers. To explore these properties further, QSPP
was tested on artificial skin made from a unique microfluidic based experimental set up to assess the product’s capacity to control
5.3 2.7 0
-2.7 -5.3
L R
5.3 2.7 0
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Cream-free massage Formula with QSPP L R
6 3 0
-3 -6
Formula with benchmark emulsifier
Figure 2: fMRI imaging showing the activation of different brain areas linked to wellness and positive emotions following cream-free massage, the application of a formula containing QSPP, and a benchmark emulsifier
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TEWL variation after application on the skin of gels formulas containing 2 and 5% Pickmulse vs. other emulsifiers
QSPP 2% ■ QSPP 5% ■ Sorbitan laurate 2% ■ Glyceryl stearate citrate 2% ■ Control - non treated area ■
10 5 0
-5
-10 -15
-20 -25 -30
30 min 1h Time (h) * t-test Inter-groups comparison p<o0.05; ** t-test Inter-groups comparison p<0.01 Figure 1: Effect of QSPP on TEWL reduction
sebum production throughout the day. An emulsion of 20% oil phase with 5% QSPP or 3% polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate and polyglyceryl-4 laurate was applied on artificial skin. After drying, injections of sebum were
conducted every ten minutes for eight hours and the L* parameter, an indicator of skin luminance, was measured. The results showed that, with QSPP, the L* response under sebum injection was kept under control, demonstrating the ability of the film to control the optical aspect of the skin for a long-lasting perfector effect. QSPP not only creates skin-friendly emulsions, it also allows these emulsions to have a pearly white appearance, which could previously only be obtained with synthetic- based emulsifiers. This property allows formulators to switch their consumers’ preferred formulas to a version with enhanced naturality or improved aspect. To facilitate this switch, QSPP offers two additional benefits: high confidence in the stability of the emulsion and the capacity to emulsify up to 20% oil, allowing QSPP to be used in a wide range of products from light
6 3 0
-3 -6
L R
5.4 2.7 0
-2.7 -5.4
sprays to rich creams. Moreover, this product’s unique properties facilitate the creation of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) formulations, which can support the development of innovative textures by enhancing the sensory experience with a dynamic, cascading feel during application.
Using neuroscience to back up sensory benefits Beyond being a versatile emulsifier that simplifies formulation, QSPP also elevates the sensory experience, bringing innovative textures that foster a profound sense of wellbeing upon application. By enhancing both functionality and user experience, QSPP redefines what emulsifiers can achieve in modern cosmetic formulations. In a groundbreaking clinical study that
combined neuroscience and a patented evaluation method, 20 volunteers participated in a functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) study. The volunteers applied simple emulsions of 20% oil phase with either 5% QSPP or 4% glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate (a benchmark emulsifier).
5.4 2.7 0
-2.7 -5.4
-83% -80% -78% 2h 24h -121% -138% * * * ** * *
TEWL variation vs. T0 (%)
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