•Overfeeding (measuring the food, but giving too much),
free feeding (a food buffet at all times) and pets that steal food (people’s and other pet’s). Often, the amount of food recom- mended on the package is too much or at least at the high end of the range. Neutered dogs and cats have a slower metabolism and should be fed on the lower end of the bag’s label recom- mendations for that particular pet. •Calories and Fat Feeding foods or treats with high
calorie content and/or high fat content, feeding ‘people food’and table scraps. •Feeding for emotional reasons. We show love with
food. We show love for people and pets with food. We give them extra feedings and use food treats as rewards, often too frequently. •Lack of adequate exercise as compared to calories
consumed. Now we have the numbers and the ‘why’ pets become
overweight or obese. Let’s get medical, and chat about why those little (or many) extra pounds are a problem. At the most basic of concepts, fat cells (adipose cells) are pro-inflammatory. This means that fat causes inflammation. And, its this inflamma- tion that leads to other serious diseases. So, if thinking that your pet is overweight or obese doesn’t sit well with you, then think about it as them being very inflamed. Fat=inflammation. Inflammation=disease. All this inflammation leads to some serious diseases and
disorders and shortens pet lives. These conditions decrease the quality of life and may reduce life expectancy by as much as two years. This means that obese pets tend to live shorter lives with more medical issues. In 2018, Nationwide, one of the largest pet insurance companies, reported the top obesity related condi- tions in dogs and cats, based on 630,000 insured pets:
The Most Common Obesity-Related Conditions In Dogs:
Arthritis Bladder/Urinary Tract Disease Liver Disease Hypothyroidism Torn Knee Ligaments Diabetes
Diseased disc (IVDD) Chronic Kidney Disease Heart Failure Gall Bladder Disease High Blood Pressure Cancer
How do you know if your pet is overweight or
obese? For the veterinarian, we have a few options: breed stan- dards, body condition score (BCS), body fat index (BFI), and dual x-ray absorptiometry (DEXA). However, these have their uses, but also their flaws. So, let’s use the KISS principle and Keep It Simple Sweetie. •Start by feeling your pet’s ribs. You should be able to
easily feel the ribs and the space in-between. You shouldn’t have to push through a mound of fat or flesh. You should always be able to easily feel the ribs, but not see them. •Check the belly. If there is a sagging stomach or tummy,
that’s not normal. If the belly is hanging, this means there is too much belly fat. Belly fat in pets, just as in people, is the most dangerous fat since it’s the most active fat. •Check out a towering view. Look at your pet from above. If you see the hourglass shape, meaning a belly tuck from
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the last set of ribs, then that is great. If the hourglass is missing, then time is not on your pet’s side and let the weight loss begin. Ok, here’s where the rubber means the road. Diet and
exercise. It’s that simple, but an undertaking, nonetheless. It will take time, patience, commitment and dedication, but I know you can do it. A visit to the veterinarian for a weight check and diet discussion is in order. Simply cutting back on the food just doesn’t seem to work.
A more formal approach is needed. When you just cut back on the amount of food, you also cut back on the amount of vita- mins, supplements, etc. that are included in the diet. And, strict calorie reduction can lead to fatty liver disease or the body going into ‘starvation mode’ and making weight loss even more difficult. Diet: A prescription weight loss diet is the best choice.
These are made for weight loss and help control hunger and food begging. Diets that are labeled Lite or Less Active are meant to prevent weight gain, not support weight loss. A meas- ured amount of food must be fed to meet the calories needed to achieve weight loss. Prescription weight loss diets allow for a larger volume of food to be fed to help the pet feel full and help with owner compliance that they are not starving their fur- child. And, feeding a prescription weight loss diet allows your veterinarian to consult with a nutritionist to determine the exact amount of food to be feed. Calorie calculations are still the key to determining how much to feed, not what the bag label says. Feeding the total daily amount in portions is best. Most pets should be fed at least twice a day. Take the total
daily amount of food and split it into separate feedings to keep the calories set for the day. If you have multiple pets, you may need to feed them in their kennel or separate rooms to prevent food stealing or food bullying. Automated feeders with set amounts are very helpful as well as automatic feeders that allow access to the food based on the pet’s microchip or RFID tag worn on the collar. Using food puzzles or interactive toys can help to slow the eating, giving more time for the pet to be full and satisfied as well as stimulating for the mind and encourag- ing activity. Snacks and Treats: This is where most well laid diet
plans go out the window. Pets are masters at begging and guilt- ing us into giving them a snack, treat, goodie, piece of toast, crust of pizza, etc. Many treats can actually equal more calories than the bowl of food given. For a dog: •1 oz of cheese is equal to a person eating 2 doughnuts. •A dried pig’s ear is equal to a person eating 3 doughnuts. •A bacon strip treat is equal to a person eating 4 doughnuts. •A full rawhide bone is equal to a person eating 10 doughnuts.
For pets, the act of getting the treat is more important than
the size or type of treat. And, since they don’t do math, divide those treats into smaller portions. Or, give small portions of low fat, low calorie treat such as baby carrots, green beans, celery or broccoli. And a treat doesn’t have to be food. It can be a quick walk, play time, brushing time, or any time spent bonding. Some other reward that is not food based.
Continued on following pageg THE NEW BARKER 81
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