prescriptive nail care nail diagnosis
“It is important to carry out a thorough consultation and analysis at the beginning of each treatment, to make sure you prescribe the correct solution to achieve the best results,” explains Alyson Trueman, Jessica Nails Educator. “Ask clients what their nail concerns are, as well as questions about their lifestyle. Assess each nail individually, as nails on the same hand can have different needs. This will allow you to tailor the treatment programme and duration.”
Generally there is no quick fix for unhealthy nails. It is most likely that your client will need to undergo continuous care over a period of weeks to help nurse their nails back to full health. Laying out a treatment plan with achievable goals in mind, so that your client can watch their progress over the weeks, tends to be the most effective way to treat unhealthy nails. You are also securing repeat treatments in your schedule.
When creating your plan, consider both the answers from your consultation and your client’s budget to generate the most suitable system for you both. It is recommended that you take a deposit for the whole course of treatments after providing the first one to make sure you are covered in case of any change of mind later on.
nail diagnosis
A list of common nail complaints seen in salons currently include peeling and flaking, post-enhancement or damaged nails, soft, weak and thin nails or nails that have become dry and brittle. We discuss these further with Alyson:
• Peeling and flaking: “This occurs when the layers of keratin begin to split at the free edge of the nail and can be caused by a number of factors from low fat diets to bad filing methods or ill health. The best way to treat flaking nails is to use a strengthening base coat, to help fuse the nail layers back together.”
• Post-enhancement or damaged nails: “While all nails are different, the most common complaint is post-acrylic damage. Clients who have worn nail enhancements can be left with severely damaged, thinned, dry and weak nails.” To help repair these types of nails use a nail strengthening product to give them back the stability they need. Some brands have created products which will help to rebuild nails from the foundation upwards, ensuring the nail is treated thoroughly. This can be carried out during weekly manicures. Don’t forget to apply cuticle oil and massage the hand with a non-greasy hand lotion to help stimulate nail growth. Ridge fillers can often prove beneficial as they will provide a smoother nail surface.
• Soft, weak, thin nails or dry, hard and brittle nails:The most common issue with soft, weak and thin nails is the fact that they will often break before the plate gets a chance to grow. A similar story can be told for dry and brittle nails. To remedy these issues why not trial an intense nail strengthener that contains proteins such as Keratin, Soy and Wheat with Calcium to provide a protective barrier that will strengthen the nail, enabling it to grow strong, without breaking. This type of product will provide moisturising properties too.
After diagnosing your client, you can both design a treatment programme which you will agree to carry out over the coming months. However, the client is not expecting to just come in for a treatment, they will want to feel pampered as well. This is where the use of other techniques on top of your specialised products come in.
Simple ideas such as soaking the hands, filing the nails down and massaging the hands to get the circulation flowing are all factors which will benefit the nail growth over all.
“As well as prescribing a treatment base coat for nails, apply extra oils and creams for those with dry skin, and offer hand massages to stimulate circulation,” adds Alyson. “Depending on the nail concern, you can also offer your clients heated mittens or booties during the treatment to help products penetrate deeper. After the treatment, complete a prescription card to record progress, monitor results and recommend aftercare.”
aftercare
Here is an opportunity for you to influence your client’s progress in between treatments. Encouraging home care treatments will not only make your life easier, but will also mean that your client can see results faster, leaving them more likely to keep up with their scheduled appointments.
“We recommend applying a treatment base coat every other day,” Alyson explains. “After seven days, remove using nail polish remover and repeat the treatment. Continue this for a maximum of six to eight weeks only, to avoid over-treating the nail. Once the desired results have been achieved, move on to a base coat for normal nails as an ongoing maintenance treatment.”
Remember that no amount of treatment will be effective on the nails if the acts causing the damage continue. Encourage your client to alter their lifestyle to enable their nails to have the best chance of being healthy. If their eating habits are poor, advise them on healthy dietary routines to really see a difference week on week. If their job leaves them feeling stressed, why not recommend some relaxation time where the client can do something they enjoy, like yoga or adult colouring. Applying these simple tasks alongside weekly treatments will help to see progress with healthier looking nails on each visit.
Turn the page to discover the latest products available to help you treat your clients’ nails…
To help repair weakened nails, use a nail strengthening product to give them back the stability they need. Image ©
istock.com/Belyjmishka.
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