PROVENCE continued from page 21
coffee and eat fresh “pain du chocolate” (baked croissants). Later we would meander up those sun-bleached, ancient streets, marveling at the stone/rock world of small walled-in gardens and rubble stone housing, all perched precariously on the cliff side. Each building had been added to, converted and modified, over the many centuries, telling its own individual story. The stone road-ways streamed down, like forest trails, combining systems to shed the rain with spectacular views of the valley below. The light would make a painter weep and the air smelled like rosemary. Later we would venture out for wine, food and discovering our new environment. We roamed up and down the twisting roads of the Luberon discovering more ancient hill top villages (mostly on their market days), like Ongles, Oppedette and the larger Sisteron; leaving tourist centers like Pont du Gard and Orange for another day. In the afternoons we sat in a tiny cliff side garden, soaking up the sun (& wine), while watching the special light of provenance, alter the faded green/beige valley below. We inhaled the warm dry air, read
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and totally relaxed, while sitting in the shadow of an imposing 11th century fortress (the church is new – built in 1585). We discovered Apt, another fairy-tale (barley altered) historic treasure on market days. Each town has a market day, so that everyone can access the local, fresh, seasonal produce, as they take their food “very” seriously here. On a recommendation from a local, we drove the mountain back roads, to a small winery (30 ha), the Domaine Du PUY MARQUIS. The views over the vineyard into the misty valley below were spectacular, not to mention their great wines (which we used to overload the car). On SAULT’s market day; we traveled to the wonderful we traveled to the wonderful hilltop location overlooking another magical valley but with an unbelievable view of
Mont Ventoux (Windy Mountain). The market was a typical movable feast of sub-tropical local produce (exotic olives, pates, sausages, cheeses and spices). Amazingly, it was the view of the stand alone mountain that kept drawing our eye, so off we ventured to explore the shimmering peak. The long climb consisted of severe switchback roads, through a rock strewed pine forest, overlooking the world below. The altitude made all on board nervous of the “extreme consequences” (understatement) of missing a turn, as the road just kept on climbing and climbing, until finally we reached the bare rock summit. The view was unworldly, with spacecraft like panoramic views in every direction, including the French/Italian alps. What was also inexplicable in this rarefied
continued on page 35
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