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Must have” in vitro models deliver novel claims support


Growing competition, demanding regulators, and savvy consumers collectively place ever increasing burdens on product developers in the cosmetic industry


Fortunately rapid advances in our understanding of key fields in skin biology such as stem cells and ageing are providing just the insights needed to meet these demands. Translating the latest scientific insights into novel, strongly supported product claims is now more accessible than ever, courtesy of an expanding range of advanced in vitro models that precisely exploit the very latest biological discoveries. Long-gone are the days of generalist cell culture methods used across a wide range of in vitro applications. The last several years have seen a boom in the appearance of advanced in vitro models specifically designed to address a precisely defined cell type or biological mechanism. Using specialised techniques (such as 3D


culture) combined with precision culture media designed to target precise biological signalling pathways, today’s models can select specific cell types (such as stem cells) from within the starting tissue sample, or address a complex biological mechanism such as skin sensitisation or ageing. In most large pharma companies, 3D models are now considered “must have” tools due to the increased in vivo relevance they bring to many drug discovery and toxicological processes1


. To illustrate the continuous evolution of new in vitro


approaches, this article summarises some key features of three innovative types of models that have advanced significantly in recent years.


3-Dimensional Models 3D culture techniques are continually developing, and now run the full gamut from stratified models (e.g. the epidermis), through scaffold-dependent approaches (such as intestinal or mammary stem cells within a gel2


), to scaffold-free methods in which


cells self-assemble into 3D structures without additional support (such as dermal stem cells in spheroid culture3


).


Cellular behaviour in 3D culture can differ massively from that seen in traditional monolayer cultures4


differential expression of up to several thousand genes5


, significantly different toxicity and EC50 . Widely documented differences include


Specialty Culture Methods: (A) Epidermal stem/progenitor cells in a 2D precision medium, (B) Dermal stem/progenitor cells growing as spheres in a 3D medium, (C) Stratified 3D model established from epidermal progenitors


1. H. Ruffner, Novartis. Keynote speech, Dechema 3D Cell Culture Conference, 2012.


2. Sato, T et al. 2009. Nature 459, pp 262-266 3. CELLnTEC precision media; www.cellntec.com 4. Yamada and Cuckierman, 2007. Cell 130, pp 601-611 5. Kelm et al. 2010. Journal of Biotechnology doi: 10.1016


6. Tung YC et al, 2011. Analyst 136(3), pp 473-478


, increased viability and longevity, and considerable changes in functionality such as the retention of multipotency.


values6


Stem Cell Models 3D methods are instrumental in many stem cell culture methods, and are most effective in conjunction with precision media formulations designed to target specific signalling pathways. With the media and methods available today, it is possible to maintain stem/progenitor cells from a wide variety of epithelial tissues, including both the epidermis and dermis2


. As media formulations


advance, fully defined media are now becoming available that provide full control over the in vitro system, and thereby enable the development of advanced specialty models that depend on precisely designed micro-environments.


Specialty Models: Ageing Results with 3D culture and precision media have confirmed that with the right environment, virtually any in vivo cell behaviour can also be established in vitro. By combining this observation with more detailed insights into the ageing process, it is now possible to create very specialised in vitro environments, for example to encourage natural ageing of cells without the use of acute, non- physiological doses of oxidisers2


(as are commonly


used in traditional approaches). The few examples provided above give a brief snapshot of the kind of advanced approaches that have delivered the leading in vitro models in recent





3D models are now considered “must have” tools due to the increased in vivo relevance they bring to many drug discovery and toxicological processes





years. With ongoing refinement of existing approaches plus a pipeline of new innovations, the coming years will certainly continue to deliver a continuous flow of novel approaches. By combining the latest models with powerful new analytical techniques and the latest biological insights, strong support for innovative new cosmetic products will become more accessible than ever, and continue to support the drive toward innovative new cosmetic products.


Peter Girling VP Business Development


CELLnTEC Advanced Cell Systems AG www.cellntec.com


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