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Industry first


Mibelle Biochemistry is presenting DermCom, the first cosmetic ingredient that uses cell-to-cell communication for repair deep in the skin.


In old skin, the cells of the deeper skin


layer, the dermis, exhibit a severely reduced synthesis of collagen and elastin. DermCom triggers in the cells of the skin surface the release of messenger compounds, in order to instruct the dermis cells to activate the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibres. The messenger compounds in cell-to-cell communication are called growth factors. DermCom, which is based on an extract of Crocus chrysanthus bulbs, was found to stimulate the synthesis of growth factors in skin surface cells. In assays with dermis cells, these growth factors strongly stimulated the synthesis of elastin. Analysis of the dermis skin layer in vivo with two- photon microscopy was used to demonstrate an increase of collagen and elastin after just two weeks’ application of a cream containing DermCom.


Mibelle Biochemistry, Stand E50


Unique process creates ideal ingredient


Oat Cosmetics has applied for a patent to protect its unique manufacturing process for Colloidal Oatmeal. Using natural wholegrain oats, the process creates an ingredient ideal for skin care. For decades the production process for Colloidal Oatmeal has remained largely unchanged. However, Oat Cosmetics unique development ensures an Ecocert/Cosmos approved natural ingredient, which meets the stringent requirements of the US Pharmacopeial Convention. The flour is extruded prior to milling and sizing to give excellent microbial purity without the need for irradiation or chemical processing. In addition there has been an increase in the bioavailability of the beta glucan as well as an improvement in the colloidal behaviour. Oat Cosmetics Colloidal Oatmeal is a cost-effective, skin protectant, ideal for use in creams and lotions. The product exhibits effective moisturising properties and is a natural anti-irritant.


Oat Cosmetics, Stand B34 Dual action sun protection


ROVI Cosmetics, a subsidiary of Air Products and Chemicals, Inc, provides evidence-based active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. Dermoprotectyl®


cellular active™ is an


innovative, new ingredient that provides both a first line of defence (through UVA and UVB filters on the skin surface) and a second line of defence (through antioxidants Vitamin C and Vitamin E deep in the skin). By relying on a dual action delivery method, the Dermoprotectyl sun protection active


delivers antioxidants into the epidermis to provide protection from free radicals, while at the same time firmly adhering UVA and UVB filters onto the skin surface to provide effective UV protection.


ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH, F60


Inolex Rebrands for Global Expansion


Inolex has unveiled a new branding campaign to support its global expansion. The new branding reflects the company’s multi-million dollar investment in cosmetic technologies that are natural, sustainable, and meet the most pressing consumer needs. “Inolex has risen rapidly to the forefront of


ingredient innovation, and our new brand reflects that,” notes Conrad Plimpton, Chairman of Inolex. “It represents our forward-thinking approach to formulating with naturals and to helping our clients stay on top of the important consumer and regulatory trends.” The latest results of Inolex’s innovation programme can be seen with the launch of a range of natural silicone alternatives, the LexFeel®


N-Series, at


in-cosmetics 2012. The lightest fluid in the range, LexFeel N5, has a sensory profile similar to cyclomethicone D5. The other versions, LexFeel N20, N50, N100, N200 and N350, are uncanny in their similarity to dimethicones. All of the products are 100 percent natural and manufactured using several important green chemistry principles. Kimberly Burch, Inolex’s Technical Applications


Manager, notes that consumers are demanding higher standards from their personal care products. “Today’s skin and hair care formulations must feel great, perform flawlessly, and have ingredients that are sourced from sustainable agriculture. We are thrilled to be able to offer the LexFeel N-Series fluids to meet each one these requirements.”


Inolex Chemical Company, Stand P40 S


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