54
Evidence based cosmetic ingredients
Tomáš Muthný Ph.D., Head of the Anti-ageing Actives R&D Group at Contipro Biotech, discusses the need for a conceptual approach to skin ageing, the need to combine in vitro and in vivo findings, and the new direction which cosmetic ingredient manufacturers need to take
Everything relates to everything Skin ageing is a natural, highly multifarious and complex process. Decoding the coherence of internal causal mechanisms is essential if we are to effectively alleviate visible effects such as diminished hydration, impaired oiliness, rough texture, reduced elasticity, colour inhomogeneities and wrinkles. With this in mind, we intensively study product effect mechanisms at molecular and cellular level in laboratories, while placing a major emphasis on monitoring their effect in in vivo conditions. We then rigorously compare these outputs to produce ingredients whose effectiveness is evidence-based and explained on a scientific basis.
Simply but in depth This comprehensive and integrated approach enables us to single out the most important information – in terms of the relationship between internal physiological mechanisms from the large quantity of data obtained on each ingredient. This helps us to decode even very complex mechanisms, and subsequently to interpret them crisply and clearly, place them in context, and apply them. In doing so, we must not lose sight of in vitro data with no pronounced link to the visible sign of ageing affected. Rather, we need to draw on this information and in our further work in order to develop new raw material complementing, as expediently as possible, the effects of existing ingredients and thus
D0 D84
encompassing skin-ageing issues in all their complexity and intricacy.
HyActive
One example of such an ingredient is HyActive. Laboratory in vivo tests on skin cells using modern methods of molecular biology have revealed that HyActive promotes the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by means of the increased expression of the relevant synthase, and activates the enzyme beta- glucocerebrosidase, activates the synthesis of extracellular components, inhibits their excessive degradation and stabilises the regular structuring of collagen fibres by activating transglutaminase. The dominant result expected in the in vivo study will therefore be wrinkle reduction and improved hydration. The reduction of wrinkles has been confirmed by in vivo tests and there is significant skin-texture smoothing accompanied by a positive pro- desquamatory effect. This final effect has a clear causal link with the smoothing effect and, at molecular level, is triggered by the activation of proteolysis.
Back in the beginning
But does this not bring us into conflict with our own data? After all, we have found that proteolysis is inhibited (the degradation of extracellular components is decreased) and not activated. And what about hydration? If the content of water binding hyaluronic
acid in the skin increases and the natural ceramide barrier (the activation of beta-glucocerebrosidase) is increased, shouldn't surface hydration increase too? Not at all. The activation of non-specific proteases does not necessarily exclude the inhibition of substrate-specific matrices of metalloproteinases. Similarly, unchanged hydration in the upper parts of the epidermis does not reflect the effect of hydration in the deeper epidermal layers. Here, however, we must give preference to in vivo evidence. In this light, it is necessary to complement the portfolio so that we are able to offer more options for the comprehensive tackling of skin-ageing issues. For example, HyActive could be suitably complemented by a product with greater hydration of the upper skin layer. That said, it should be borne in mind that, in the process of skin ageing everything relates to everything, and everything interacts. There is no point in trying to change this paradigm and compartmentalise artificially. If we want to look younger for longer, we must first decode the ageing process in all its breadth and then proceed accordingly. It is not enough to focus on one visible sign or on one mechanism of ageing. Formulation chemists must have the opportunity to find a conceptual solution capable of addressing not only selected signs of ageing, but also the problem of skin ageing in its entirety.
Contipro, Stand F50
D0
D84
Effect of HyActive (0,005%) after 12 weeks of daily treatment. 3D LifeViz picture and reconstruction. The more orange, the deeper area
Illustrative picture of large (left) and normal (right) keratinocyte aggregates
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197