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A skin treatment that stands out a mile
Irene Montaño Phd, Mibelle Group Biochemistry, discusses a differential active ingredient that fortifies the functional capacity of dermal stem cells, offering an authentic anti-ageing prospective
Not only cells in the epidermis age, but also dermal cells, that is to say fibroblasts. The dermal fibroblasts interact with keratinocyte stem cells and melanocytes regulating their survival and proliferation. Additionally, the thickness and elasticity of the dermis is guarded by fibroblasts via the synthesis of collagen and elastin. These proteins form the extracellular matrix, a three dimensional structure that provides elasticity and firmness to the skin. Ageing skin is distinguished by an increasing number of senescent fibroblasts. The replacement of these senescent fibroblast by new ones can only be provided by dermal stem cells.
Source of dermal precursor cells Adult dermal stem cells were identified only a few years ago when researchers demonstrated that the dermal papilla (Figure 1) serves as a niche for progenitor cells (Driskell et al., 2011). These human dermal papilla cells were found to self-renew, to induce formation of hair follicles and to differentiate into dermal cell types like fibroblasts. They have been found to specifically express the established stem cell marker Sox2. They also grow in colonies forming three-dimensional spheres which is a dermal stem cells characteristic (Biernaskie et al., 2009). As we previously showed, analysis of these parameters proved that the stem cell extract of Argania spinosa (commercial name PhytoCellTec™
Argan) effectively promoted dermal stem
cell activity (Schmid
et.al 2011). The detection of dermal precursor cells and the
establishment of an in vitro method to culture these cells unlock the door to the next generation of stem cell cosmetics: strengthening and vitalisation of human dermal stem cells for restoration of skin firmness and wrinkle reduction.
Now Mibelle Biochemistry translates these effects
from the cellular level into clinical studies. PhytoCellTec™
as a sustainable cell culture technique
Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a novel plant cell culture technology enabling the large-scale cultivation of callus cells from rare and protected plant species such as Argania spinosa. The Argan tree (Arganium spinosum) belongs to the oldest tree species of the world and grows only in the south-western part of Morocco. These trees are able to resist intense droughts and extremely high temperatures. Nowadays, Argan trees are an endangered species and as such they cannot be used as a raw material for a cosmetic ingredient. As an alternative, the plant tissue culture technique was used to produce vegetal raw material. This technology relies on the wound healing mechanism of a plant where after an injury, the healing of the cut surface begins with the formation of callus cells. These cells have dedifferentiated and become stem cells. For this purpose Argan shoots were injured to induce callus formation. Argan callus cells were then cultivated in an appropriate medium and large-scale
Epidermis Dermis Hypodermis
Epidermis Dermis
Subcut- aneous tissue
Oil gland
Nerve Lymph vessel
Hair follicle
Sweat gland
Dermal papilla
Artery Vein
Fatty tissue
Low echogenic tissue
D0
production was achieved in a specialised WAVE bioreactor system. The ultimate step to obtain PhytoCellTec™
Argan, was homogenisation at high
pressure together with phospholipids to encapsulate and stabilise oil-and water-soluble components into liposomes. The resulting extract was carefully sprayed onto a powder based on isomalt.
Clinical outcome Improvement of Skin Firmness of Women’s Thighs
A clinical trial was conducted on 22 women aged between 22 and 53 with cellulite grade II-III on thighs. An emulsion with 0.4% PhytoCellTec™
Argan was
applied twice daily for 56 days on one thigh. The other thigh was treated with the placebo cream. The dermis-hypodermis junction area (DHJA) was determined by ultrasonography by DermScan C. Ultrasonography is a technique for measuring skin density/tightening where pulses of ultrasound waves are emitted into the skin. In these images the heterogeneous dermis appears bright, whereas the more homogeneous hypodermis shows up dark. Adipose tissue, which protrudes into the lower dermis, is recognised by the irregular, broad dermis- hypodermis junction area (Figure 2a, day 0). After 56 days of use, and compared to the placebo product, the emulsion with PhytoCellTec™
Argan induced a
decrease in the dermis-hypodermis junction area of 11% (Figure 2b). The skin resulted tighter and
n 0.4 PhytoCellTec™ Argan D28
n Placebo D56
High echogenic, tighter tissue
Figure 1. The dermal papillae as niche of dermal precursor cells
D56
Figure 2a. Ultrasonographic images of women’s tights skin at day zero (DO) and at day 56 (D56) of the treatment with PhytoCellTec™
Argan
16% ________________________________ 14% ________________________________ 12% ________________________________ 10% ________________________________ 8% ________________________________ 6% ________________________________ 4% ________________________________ 2% ________________________________ 0% ________________________________ -2% ________________________________
Figure 2b. Dermis-hypodermis junction area after 28 days and 56 days of treatment with PhytoCellTec™ Argan in comparison to the placebo
➞ ➞ ➞
Decrease of the DHJA relative to D0 (%)
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