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Proteasome Activation - Impetus for skin care
Stefan Bänziger, PhD, Manager Development Cosmetic Actives, RAHN AG, discusses a promising anti-ageing strategy
Proteasomes are the cell’s means of disposing of proteins that are damaged or worn out. However, as we age, Proteasome activity declines, and damaged proteins accumulate in our cells. The result is a gradual impairment of cell function and, ultimately, the appearance of the signs of ageing. As a result, reactivating our Proteasomes is a considerable anti- ageing strategy.
Ageing is a natural process that goes hand in hand with a gradual loss of physiological and cellular functions. An imbalance between the formation and the degradation of damaged and worn out proteins is understood to be an underlying cause. Proteins in human cells are repeatedly damaged during the cells normal metabolism. This damage is mainly oxidative damage, and appears as a result of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. A further example of damage to proteins is thermal unfolding and modification through linkage to carbohydrates
(glycation). Once proteins have been modified, they often lose their function and become inactive. They can only be repaired to a limited extent, and usually have to be degraded and removed from the cell. The degradation of damaged proteins is managed by a highly specialised cellular recycling factory called the proteasomal system, whose core element is the 20S proteasome (Fig. 1). Due to its ring structure, the proteasome resembles a refuse bin. It can be regarded as a highly complex multi-catalytic system and takes over the function of a protein shredder. Proteins which need to be degraded are managed via the signal molecule Ubiquitin to the proteasome. Once inside they are shredded into oligopeptides and amino acids. Notably, the importance of the proteasomal protein degradation is reflected by the fact that its elucidation was acknowledged with the Nobel Prize for Chemistry in 2004. Cellular ageing is favoured when the speed of the
formation and degradation of damaged proteins are out of balance. For example, if the organism is exposed to high oxidative stress or when the activity of the proteasomal system declines with age [1]. The gradual loss of proteasomal activity as we age eventually leads to the accumulation of damaged proteins and induces a vicious circle since aggregates of damaged proteins tend to self-amplify. The accumulation of protein aggregates progressively hampers the effective functionality of the cells (e.g. pigmentation in the elderly fades more and more as melanin synthesis and proliferation capacity in melanocytes decline) and provokes the first signs of ageing such as wrinkles and age spot formation.
Proteasome activation rejuvenates the skin Inappropriate accumulation of damaged proteins appears to be a major cause of skin ageing, and an excellent target for cosmetic strategies that aim to control skin ageing [2]. We hypothesise that the protection or activation of the proteasomal function represents a very powerful anti-ageing strategy since proteasome activation can delay cellular ageing and the appearance of first signs of ageing. In addition, proteasome activation increases the capacity to cope with various oxidative stressors, enhances cell survival, and extends cellular lifespan [1, 3-5]. The latest findings have uncovered that Olive leaf extracts and in particular Oleuropein, are able to reactivate the proteasome [5]. As a result, we invested in the development of a proteasome activating olive leaf extract and incorporated it into PROTEOLEA®
, a holistic cosmetic-active concept
aimed at the 35+age category to counteract the first signs of ageing. PROTEOLEA®
date (jujuba) extract to strengthen the skin’s antioxidative defence system and invigorate the metabolism of ageing skin [6]. As well as the polysaccharide Levan, to moisturise and tighten the skin, and to reduce the first signs of skin ageing should they emerge [7].
Figure 1: The human proteasome. It is also known as the 26S proteasome and contains one 20S core particle and two capping 19S regulatory particles. The 20S core particle is a barrel-shaped stack of four rings. The outer rings, consisting of 7 α-subunits, control the access to the protein degrading ß-subunits
Eye-wrinkle rejuvenation - 6 years within 4 weeks At day 0, wrinkle depth was measured in four age groups (n=20 each), and a regression line was calculated to define age according to the wrinkle depth (Fig. 2, top). The age group 41–45 then applied a 3% PROTEOLEA®
gel twice daily, and wrinkle depth Continued over page also contains Chinese
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