IPL&laser hair removal
She continues: “However, IPL systems utilise an entirely different technology to generate the pulse of light that is emitted from the handpiece.Whereas Lasers produce a single wavelength light i.e. a pure light consisting of one single colour and form; IPL, and specifically Ecolite, uses a specially constructed Xenon flash lamp and focusing optics with a broad spectrum of wavelengths determined by different filters.”
“IPL is a safe, painless and effective method of hair removal,” says Crystal Clear founder Sharon Hilditch,MBE. “IPL delivers a pulse or several pulses of light energy into the skin. The light energy is converted to heat energy to damage the targeted cells (the cells responsible for hair re-growth, vascular and pigmented blemishes).We know to kill off the cells responsible for the anagen stage of hair growth, we need to heat the follicle to no more than 70 degrees.
“The main aim is to get the correct level of treatment into the skin to induce the desired effect without damaging the normal surrounding tissue. This theory is called ‘selective Photothermolysis’.
“During a course of treatments the hair growth may reduce and the density of the hair may change, therefore the energy level may need to be altered. For example, if the hair becomes finer over time, we may need to increase the level as there is less ‘target’.”
“The target chromophore for hair removal is melanin, the naturally occurring pigment molecules that give skin and hair its colour,” explains Dr Donna Freeman, ClinicalManager for Chromogenex Technologies Ltd. “The more melanin that is present the more the light photons will absorb into the target and raise its temperature. Dark coloured hair surrounded by pale colour skin offers the best opportunity for Laser-based epilation treatment, as this will maximise the heat in the follicle and minimise the heat in the surrounding skin.”
Dr Freeman continues: “Laser hair removal has been employed commercially since the mid 1990s. It has become an accepted modality for long- term hair reduction, rivalling Electrolysis due to its speed and efficacy in clearing small patches of unwanted hair, and the clear winner over Galvanic, Thermolysis or Blend electrology on larger treatment zones where Laser treatment can work out up to 60 times faster.
“Laser hair removal began with the Ruby (694nm) andAlexandrite (755nm) Lasers
using visible red light at wavelengths corresponding to preferential absorption in melanin rather than blood. The Nd:YAG (1064nm) and diode (808- 810nm) devices followed shortly along with a multitude of variations of broad spectrum intense pulsed light devices. Ruby and Nd:YAG Lasers have also been utilised in Q-switched mode, aiming to disrupt the follicle structures by a photomechanical shock mechanism, but while these techniques have demonstrated temporary hair loss, they have typically failed to guarantee permanent hair reduction.”
managing client expectations
It’s important to state that the majority of Laser and IPL systems are only able to produce permanent hair reduction, not permanent removal, so it’s important that you manage your clients’ expectations.
“Generally, the average number of Laser / light treatments needed to achieve a significant reduction of excess hair is between five and seven treatments, typically scheduled at one to three month intervals depending on anatomical location,” Dr Freeman advises.
“It is important that the expectations of potential patients are carefully evaluated and if necessary, controlled, prior to embarking on hair reduction treatment to avoid disappointment several months later.A clear distinction needs to be made between permanent and complete hair loss; complete hair loss is actually the complete lack of re-growing hairs. Laser treatment typically produces complete but temporary hair loss for one to three months followed by partial but permanent hair loss.”
She adds: “Patients can have very different expectations of treatment; temporary versus permanent, partial versus complete and also how quickly their final result can be achieved. For an area such as the legs, treatments may take more than a year in time to complete and for hormonally driven hirsute issues, a treatment endpoint may never be reached, merely maintained with regular scheduled treatments.
“Effectiveness for permanent hair reduction is strongly correlated with hair colour. The holy grail of light-based epilation has always been the treatment of red or blond hairs, which are lacking in melanin content, made even more difficult when it is fine vellus rather than terminal hair structures that are unwanted.
Wearing eye protection during light- based procedures, such as these from Laser Physics, is vital to protect you and your client.
The EpsilonMulti Filter, from Advanced Esthetics Solutions, combines thewide selectivity of Nd:YAGLaser and the speed of Intense Pulsed Light technologies in one system.
GUILD NEWS 81
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