advanced SPFs
“Contrary to popular belief,wearing a high SPF cream is not the ultimate sun protection solution.”
- Tracy Tamaris, Environ Training Director at the iiaa
Although the British weather isn’t known for its reliability, it seems that almost every skin care product nowadays seems to carry some level of UV protection, but with so many options available it can be something of a number game for your clients.
A recent survey carried out by the BritishAssociation of Dermatologists revealed that there was still a high level of confusion about what to actually look for in a sunscreen and the difference between a product’s UVA rating and Sun Protection Factor (SPF), with only 38%of respondents knowing that the SPF is what predominantly protects against sunburn, and just 39%realising that it is a product’s UVA protection, rather than SPF, that prevents against skin ageing.
The survey also claims that the recent rise in moisturisers featuring SPFs may have led to this misconception, as people often assume the added SPF properties will prevent wrinkling as opposed to UVA protection which is often missing from High Street brands.
But, with clients demanding more from their skin care products, how do we bridge the gap between providing adequate UVB and UVA protection with effective skin care formulas? The answer is with advanced SPFs.
Advanced SPFs, often referred to as broad-spectrum SPFs, not only consider the impact of UVB rays on the skin with the inclusion of an SPF filter, but also include skin-saving properties such as vitaminsA, C and E alongside reflectant UVA filters to help combat the free radical damage to the skin.
“Contrary to popular belief, wearing a high SPF cream is not the ultimate sun protection solution. Studies show that people who wear higher SPFs put their skin at greater risk of damage by staying in the sun three times longer,” warns Tracy Tamaris, Environ Training Director at the iiaa.
“There is also evidence that some sunscreen ingredients can trigger free radical damage once they have been absorbed unless they are frequently re-
applied.Antioxidant vitamins significantly reduce the impact of free radicals that can damage DNA and lead to the destruction of collagen and elastin, prematurely aged skin, pigmentation and even skin cancer.”
“With everything we now know about the deep-down changes the sun makes to the skin, it’s just not enough to rely on a good SPF filter,” comments Dr Lionel de Benetti, Clarins Head of Research and Development.
“Cell-specific protective active ingredients and the performance of the texture are just as important
too.After all, if the texture breaks up, the SPF filters mean very little anyway.Which is why, in the context of what we know today, there is no such thing as deep- down effective, cheap sun protection. Sun protection is the most complex, sophisticated and expensive field of skin care development because mistakes could result in serious skin damage,’ adds Dr Benetti.
do themaths
When it comes to offering advanced SPFs in the salon, it’s essential to educate your clients on the differences between UVB and UVA protection, and that they understand exactly what an SPF is.
“An SPF is a term used to indicate the minimum time for you to burn with a
sun protection product compared to the minimum time required to burn without a sun protection product. For example, if it takes six minutes to develop a persistent redness where the skin is exposed without sun protection and 48 minutes with protection, then the SPF of the product would be eight. The higher the SPF the more [UVB] protection offered,” explains Sharon HilditchMBE,Managing Director of Crystal Clear Skin Care.
“Many sunscreen products do not block UVA radiation, which [although it] does not cause sunburn, more importantly [it] can increase the rate of melanoma, another kind of skin cancer, so people using sunscreens may be getting too much UVA without realising it,” Sharon adds.
“While high factor SPF 30-40 sun creams protect against UVB, the burning ray, they [often] do nothing to protect against ageing UVA, which like UVB, has been found to cause skin cancer,” agrees Dr Des Fernandes of the International Institute forAnti- Ageing (iiaa).
“It is [therefore] essential to wear a broad spectrum sun cream containing a combination of absorbent and reflective UVA and UVB filters, backed up by antioxidant vitamins C, E and beta-carotene (plant vitaminA) to combat the free radical damage inflicted by the sun’s rays on the skin,” he advises.
product protection
With so many different aspects to consider, it may feel overwhelming to even consider taking on such products, but fear not as many of our industry’s best skin care companies already offer this kind of advanced product protection for your clients. So sit back and relax as we guide you through the world of advanced SPFs.
GUILD NEWS 103
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