q&a by dermalogica question time Candice Gardner is on hand to answer your skin care questions
Q: I have heard Fish oils are beneficial for the skin. Can you explain how?
A: Fish oils are rich in omega-3 fatty acids [EicosapentaenoicAcid (EPA), and DocosahexaenoicAcid (DHA)].These essential fats help reduce inflammation in the body and improve the skin’s natural barrier function by replenishing the barrier lipids. For these reasons they arewidely recommended to improve dry skin conditions and for individuals sufferingwith eczema.
The skin produces several different lipids which contribute to the hydrolipid film[also known as the acidmantle], including sebum fromthe sebaceous gland and a selection of barrier lipids that are extruded fromthe
keratinocyte.These barrier lipids are reorganised into layers or lamellae to provide a chemical barrier in between the corneocytes keeping pathogens and irritants out andmoisture
in.These lipids are extremely important to your skin’s protective function.
Taken orally through the diet or via supplementation, omega-3 oils can provide critical building blocks for the formation of skin and body
lipids.Alternatively, you can apply directly to the skin viamoisturisers and serums. Fish oils are seldomused in topical products due to odour, although there are of course other plant sources of omega-3 oils such as Flax Seed oil.
Interestingly, new research conducted by the University ofManchester suggests that omega-3 Fish oilsmay boost skin immunity to
sunlight.This study published inThe American Journal of Clinical Nutrition demonstrated that omega-3 oils reduced sunlight induced immunosuppression, which affects the body’s ability to fight cancer and infection.
This does notmean that Fish oils will or should replace sunscreens, but rather that the benefits in supporting overall skin health make thema valuable addition to the diet, to be used alongside your skin care and SPF products.
Q: With the increase in popularity of face washes and water soluble cleansers, do I still need to recommend using a toner?
A:Traditionally toners were developed with astringent alcohols that could lift and remove mineral oil residues left on the skin by cream-based
cleansers.This gave rise to the three step routine: Cleanse,Tone,Moisturise. Whilst cleanser formulations have advanced to produce residue-free results, toners have actually also evolved.
These products provide a range of skin benefits beyond just removing cleanser residue, including: • Stabilising the skin’s pH (especially important in hard water areas) tomaintain the acidic protection of the skin.
• Evening out skin porosity so that hydration levels are balanced, andmoisturisers can be applied evenly and economically.
• Providing additional hydration, firming or desensitising actions to support the skin and regulate condition.
Toners are certainly not products to be ignored as they should forman integral part of your daily regimen. Look out for easy to use spritz style products that eliminate the need for cotton wool pads and product waste. Or select an astringent wipe if your clients are plagued by oiliness, blackheads and breakouts.
Q: I have heard of a new ingredient calledHPR.What is it and how does work on the skin?
A: HPR is the abbreviation for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, a newly
patented retinoid. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate was initially investigated as a new drug to target ageing skin issues but drug registrations were abandoned when the company ran out of funds. Despite the fact that it cannot be used in pharmaceutical applications, this ester of RetinoicAcid has substantial potential in a variety of cosmeceutical products, including serums andmoisturisers.
Retinoids (includingTretinoin, Retin-A and Renova which are registered as prescriptive drugs) can help the skin renew itself thereby providing anti-ageing benefits. Unfortunately the stronger prescriptive retinoids can also cause serious skin peeling and increase the skin’s sensitivity to sun
exposure.Thismay cause individuals to look for alternatives that can provide the result without the unpleasant side-effects. HPR works similarly to Retin-A, but without the characteristic irritation or the potential for retinoid dermatitis.
Milder retinoid derivatives, such as Retinol or Retinyl Palmitatemust be converted in the skin to biologically active RetinoicAcid to instigate a change in skin behaviour.
Although reducing surface activity which causes irritation, conversion alsomeans slower progression of results. HPR in contrast binds directly to Retinoid receptors in the skin to initiate a response, without needing conversion, giving quicker skin results.
HPR helps reduce surface roughness of skin and sun-induced ageing in skin. Results of a two week study showed a 50%improvement in skin roughness and about 40% improvement in skin surface scaling when HPR was applied to the skin
daily.This is definitely an ingredient to look for if your clients are concerned about ageing skin.
Candice Gardner is Education CurriculumManager UK&Eire for the International Dermal Institute. Formore information telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
76 GUILD NEWS
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124