Galley Essentials with Amanda

Amanda celebrating with Joshua Marster on his 21st birthday.

We’d slowed down on

our 270nm passage from Rarotonga to ensure our landfall at Palmerston Atoll, in the Southern Cook Islands, was a comfortable hour after sunrise. Approaching from the south meant we needed to skirt around the barrier reef that encompasses the six sandy islets to reach the farthest north, largest and only inhabited islet. First impressions of Palmerston include idyllic, beautiful, serene and welcoming due to the vibrant colors; striking blue ocean, vivid green palms and crisp, white sand beaches. As we approached the anchorage,

three yachts rolled heavily on moorings. Simon Marsters greeted us from his aluminum skiff and we enquired about the last available mooring. “I’m not sure whose it is or if it’s safe, but you can also anchor over there,” he said pointing near the pass. We knew from previous visits, that the bottom is covered with tall coral heads and deep anchor-swallowing chasms. I dove into the crystal clear water to check the location and as it proved flat enough I directed our anchor to be dropped in a very specific spot. Simon said he’d go notify customs

and immigration (a surprise on such a tiny island!) and that later he’d return to give us a ride ashore. “You’re in for a big day,” he grinned. “You’re invited to Joshua’s Marsters 21st Birthday.” The officials arrived with jokes and laughs and after glancing at our papers they warmly welcomed us to visit ashore. Minutes later Simon helped us scramble into his skiff in the difficult rolly conditions, but John opted to stand anchor watch as we’re not comfortable leaving the boat anchored on an exposed reef. All too soon we’d sped through the tight pass, across the lagoon and landed on the beach. After a refreshing cool drink in

the shade of his house Simon took us on a tour. He’s the island policeman, so is well informed on all activities.

48° NORTH, JUNE 2010 PAGE 42

adorned with a flower crown sporting NZ dollar bills, to the head table. It was a terrific meal with many local and exotic dishes. Our crew enjoyed the crab cakes and when I enquired about the tender orange- ginger chicken, a young girl said they’d used nine island chickens and one frozen New Zealand chicken. I wondered who got the NZ chicken? The customary speeches

Joshua’s Marsters 21st Birthday

by Amanda Swan Neal

Highlights include a new school house for the 22 children and three teachers. It provided great entertainment as our crew donated a substantial supply of learning tools. Then there’s the phone booth and adjacent satellite dish outfitted with solar panels where a call to New Zealand costs $30 a minute and down along the beach front sits the house and grave of William Marsters. Originally from Leicester, England William settled on the uninhabited island in 1863 with two Polynesian wives, to which he later added a third. He sired 17 children and today there are over 1,500 Marsters though only 45 or so live on the island. It was now party time. As the last

of the palm fronds were woven onto the watershed posts, we were welcomed into a palm shaded courtyard where the minister led a substantial band. We joined the other yachties and mingled as the party guests arrived; nearly the entire island. I knew we were in for a feast when, as we were ushered to the table, a 4-wheeler pulled up towing a trailer laden with prepared dishes. The minister opened with a prayer as a young delegation escorted Joshua,

began with heart warming stories from Joshua’s three grandmothers; Sarah, Teinono and Akarotouna Marsters. The ladies looked delightful

in matching aloha party frocks and flower crowns; proud of their grandson. It is interesting to note that Sarah was previously married to Tom Neale, author of An Island to Oneself. The story of his six years on the desert island of Suvarov is now a South Seas classic. Joshua’s uncle was manlier in presenting the wooden carved “key to the front door” stating that Joshua's duty was to now find a good wife; one who would work hard, take care of him and give him plenty of children. He then went on to say that if Joshua’s wife was lazy, he must not bring her to the island. Joshua’s reply was short and one of respect before the humungous chocolate cake had the candles blown out and the island dancing began. As the sun started setting and our

dancing feet became weary we bid our farewells. We’d made many friends while sharing a special moment in Joshua’s life and he sincerely invited us to return to his small island home.

Orange-Ginger Chicken

1 whole chicken ¾ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice ¼ cup sherry

2 tablespoons salad oil 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic - minced 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard salt and pepper orange sections from 2 oranges - for garnish Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98