FLAT FELT Felts for hat making are usually


manufactured in a cone- or capeline- shape, making it easier to give a hat its characteristic shape when blocking. Until the mid-20th century a version with a flat, tube-shaped piece of hair felt was produced: the manchon. Nowadays complete flat felt is only produced in wool. The composition is usually either 100%


Merino wool, or wool combined with a percentage of rayon or polyester (see also: thermo felt).


Flat felt is mostly used with flat


pattern millinery but it can also be blocked.


THERMO FELT


Thermo felt is a mix felt, made from wool combined with polyester. Because of its thermoformable


properties, it will hold a slight shape when heated, making it suitable for blocking and for making trims.


Thermo felt is only available as a flat felt, not in a capeline or cone shape.


Felt textures range from smooth to furry.


Factories produce felts with different levels of finish in a process called pouncing, sanding or polishing.


Pleated hat by


Naïade, made from a vintage manchon


REGULAR FINISH


All hat bodies are sanded at the end of the production process to remove any excess hair and give them a soft and smooth surface.


© the hat magazine


VELOUR


Velour or peachbloom is a short- haired felt with upright pile on the outside of the felt body. The finish is achieved by polishing the fibres with a fine brush to open them up.


MELUSINE


Melusine is a long-haired felt with hair length of about 1 cm, brushed in one direction.


Image by House of Adorn


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