TECHNIQUES


The base Start by making a paper pattern for a basic Juliet shape (see Issue 98 for instructions about making the pattern).


Top view


Thread 1.00 mm pre-coloured wire through 2.5 mm crinoline (see Issue 97 for instructions) and shape it around the paper pattern. Adding a headband shape


Rear view


between the ear points helps to hold the core structure and evenly distribute the extra weight of feathers and trimmings between the front and the back.


Weight displacement for


Add additional wires to the structure to make it solid and help to shape for any additional structures or feather fans added. I have used a simple six


wire tubular stand that is fixed to the core part of the headband section on the Juliet cap frame. I have supported these wires by adding a ring band (suspended 4 cm above the core) around the wires to hold them stable – this means there is no wobble!


feather extensions Evenly distribute the weight on the shaped stem (bottleneck shape) at the front of the core to elegantly hold any feather plumes you want to feature. Feather fans on headdresses should be supported by a fan- shaped base, wired and placed within the core and headband area to balance the weight. Good shapes to use are flared bottleneck shapes placed in the core area. Again, go for lightweight foundation materials. The rest of the frame can be


decorated as needed, Remember, always use lightweight base fabrics for these kinds of headdresses. Aerated foam, e.g. Zotefoam. and any of the cosplay fabrics will be good to use. However, the brittleness of some of these bases can break over time and cause some structures to collapse. I have found that using traditional bases (millinery buckram, soft furnishing buckram and strong wire) are the ‘go to’ items in these situations. If


the headdress is used for more than a ‘six- month season’, you should use buckram. Keep in mind that a showgirl headdress needs to be light and wobble-free. I have spent many a day testing headdress frames by wearing them, even doing the odd dance to see if the headdress falls off! Your hat/ headdress must be fit for purpose and ‘holding it on’ is not an option. If it falls off in use, it is the maker’s fault, not the wearer’s.


Making a headdress fit multiple sizes


At the back neck, I have made an angled squared-off open shape. This is to have an elastic inserted. This style of insert will help when you have


‘swing dancers’ (dancers who step in at a moment’s notice). The head-fitting wire edge can either expand or grip to an extra 2.5 cm if needed.


november 2023 | 67


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