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REPORT


Plastic brim wire has similar characteristics to spring wire but is made of plastic and is therefore softer. Just like spring wire, it is mostly used for brims that need to retain their curve evenly. However, because it is not as stiff, it is suitable for lightweight hat brims only.


Hat with plastic brim


wire in the outer edge of the brim by Raffaello Bettini


Millinery wire consists of a central wire core encased in fabric, usually cotton or rayon. Just like spring wire and plastic wire, it provides structure and support to the brims and crowns of hats. Unlike the other two wires, however, this type of wire is designed to be flexible and pliable, allowing milliners to bend and shape it to match the desired style and design of the hat.


Rayon is a man-made material derived from cellulose and can mimic the look and feel of natural fibres such as silk. It typically has a smoother and shinier appearance compared to cotton- covered wire and can provide a more polished and modern look to hats. Rayon-covered millinery wire is often a little more expensive than cotton-


covered wire owing to its durability and the cost of producing rayon fabric. Both


cotton and rayon can be dyed to various colours; however,


rayon tends to be more receptive to vibrant or deep dye colours.


Floral wire (also known as florist wire or flower wire) is a versatile material that is used not only in floral arrangements but also in millinery for flower making and for other finer adornments for hats. It consists of a thin, flexible wire that is often coated or wrapped in green or natural-coloured materials such as paper or plastic.


Thick paper- covered floral wire


New developments: Malleus wire ci


Bendy plastic or malleus wire is a material that has been around for over a decade in the fashion industry but is relatively new to the millinery world. It is a flat type of malleable wire that can be bent and twisted into different shapes. The wire was developed about 18 years ago by material developer and consultant John Ribchester for use as a nose piece in face masks but has since been found to have many other applications in


the textile industry. “I was working in the supply chain of Vivienne


Westwood about 13 years ago when I showed them a sample of bendy plastic,” John says. “Within 15 minutes, they asked me how quickly I could provide them with more for testing. I had more sample pieces in my car parked outside the building so within a few hours the material was being used in garments in the workshop, and a few days later it was on the catwalk in Paris.” Vivienne Westwood was not the only fashion company interested in the material as current customers include big fashion brands


56 | the hat magazine #99


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