TECHNIQUES
Attaching with ribbons
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Thin strand gripping bars can also be replaced with hat elastic or wire if used in thicker hair.
Jump rings can be used for gripping into tiaras and (halo) crowns.
Gripping bars are mainly used to hold on tiaras and headdresses.
Bandeau head-fittings
Used for centuries to hold on a bonnet, small hat or a crown to the head. But did you know the first methods were using pleated fabrics on a felt base to mimic a coif?
When the hat does not fit the head properly (e.g. if it is either smaller or larger than the head) this can be compensated by adding a shaped
head-fitting. With this insert you can reduce or enlarge the head-fitting in a hat, and this will help to balance and keep the hat on the head.
Watteau and Gainsborough’s paintings show this method of holding a hat on the head that is so beautiful. The simplest way of achieving a cupping method is by using good old-fashioned ribbons (as seen in Issues 88 and 92). Ribbons have been used for centuries to hold bonnets, crowns and tiaras, etc. on the head.
SUITABLE FOR: • Saucers • Bicornes • Boaters • Bonnet style • Skuttle
• Watteau-shaped wide- brimmed picture hats
View inside a cross section of the hat
Watteau pannier style – used on flat brims with small crowns Cupped under curled hair and attached to the head-fitting (sewn in over the ears) • This was shaped like a pannier skirt of the mid-18th century (a kidney shape)
• Pannier style was placed in the back only and this could be shaped like pannier or a crescent, both of which help to tilt the hat shape forward. These were always wired.
70 | the hat magazine #99
View inside a cross section of the hat with bandeau. Can be put on either side east or west above the ears.
Fabric-style Watteau pannier – used on flat brims with small and overblown crowns Based on soft canvas (elastic canvas, not stiffened), originally made with willow or sparterie inside, and lightly wired with 0.8 mm wire or not wired at all. Some are cut with an indented curve to allow different hairstyles.
Crescent bandeau – used on flat brims with small crowns Made to look like a crescent moon shape when worn on the right or left side of the head. It will help to give the hat a
stylised angle or tilt. Usually, the crescent is no bigger than one third of the head-fitting size of the wearer’s head (as seen in Issue 88).
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