REPORT


Wired by Elly Stemerdink


Wire is used extensively in millinery as it serves a multitude of purposes in the creation of headwear. Millinery wire can be used to provide the foundation upon which hats are constructed, to give structure to the crown, brim or other component, and to ensure that intended shapes are maintained over time. The flexibility of wire also allows designers to sculpt and shape hats to accord with their creative vision. Whether it be the elegant curve of a brim or the whimsical twist of an embellishment, artistic expressions can be realised with these types of wire.


The use of millinery wire as we know it today began to emerge in the 16th century during the Renaissance in Europe. At this time, hat styles became more elaborate and structured. The wire was likely introduced to help hats maintain their shapes, especially in the case of wide-brimmed hats and bonnets. As hat making gained prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries, wire became an indispensable tool. Elaborate and ornate hats such as the Victorian bonnet or the Edwardian picture hat relied on wire for their extravagant shapes and designs. The application of millinery wire


continued to evolve in the 20th century. And it was not something just used by hat makers and milliners. Until the 1950s, many women made their own headwear using instructions and techniques provided in magazines or specific books on ‘how to make your own hats’. Most of these hats were created not with the use of hat


blocks but by using patterns combined with wire constructions instead. From small pillbox styles to wide-brimmed sun hats, all types relied on wire for shaping and support. Just open any technical hat-making book published in the first half of the 20th century and you will find plenty of examples of these kinds of projects. These days, millinery wire remains


a fundamental item for hat makers. Contemporary milliners use wire to craft a wide range of hat styles, from classic and formal to avant-garde and fanciful. The material has adapted to changing fashion trends and continues to serve as a backbone of hat construction. Although wire is so widely used


in millinery, choosing the right type of wire for a hat project can often be challenging. Sometimes, when sourcing a seemingly similar wire from two different suppliers, you can end up with different results. Therefore, it is best to understand a few basics about the most frequently used types of wire in hat making and to know what to ask for if you are looking for a specific property in a wire.


for hat making


Some basics around millinery wire


54 | the hat magazine #99


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