TECHNIQUES SUITABLE FOR: Attaching a pillbox with various methods
When making a hat for the back of the head
Back of the head showing the area to hook pillbox shapes from
Hats to be held on the back of the head can only be put in specific positions. For pillbox shapes, use the back of the head from the centre core to the back at the largest part of the crown, which should be level with the ears. You can suspend the hat from this area.
For all other headpieces, when dealing with this part of the back of the head, you have three sections that will hold back shapes: • 3 cm from the widest point of the headband line (lime green section)
• 8 cm from the widest point of the headband line (olive green section)
Back of the head
• 10 cm from the widest point of the headband line (brown section) This is the last point you can use for a headpiece to hold before it will tip up or fall off. Each of these points will need extra support from either behind the ears or from the headband point. e.g a clip and/or a bar grip to hold the sides down.
Tip!
Fine combs can be bought from all good millinery suppliers. However, I have found that the USA-
supplied combs are the best and work in any thickness of hair (e.g. from
www.nytoho.com).
Placement of a comb in the front of a hat
Coif with comb placed in the front of the hat
Wide hair combs are used mainly for veils or heavier veils with trimmings
USA-supplied combs can be used for all thicknesses of hair, although may not hold in very thick and curly hair because of weight in the hair. Teeth are 3.5 cm long. Top bar 2–3 mm deep.
Hair combs
• Large wide combs 14 cm: For use on veils, single bar tiaras and wired headband hats. 30–36 teeth.
• 8.5 cm wide: For headbands, veils and perched pillbox hats. 20–22 teeth.
• 5.5–6 cm wide: For smaller hair pieces. Can be too small for pillbox or perched. 15–16 teeth.
• 4–5 cm wide: For tiaras, small hair pieces and wired headbands. 10–13 teeth.
• 1.5–2 cm wide: For use inside of hats and headdresses when grip bars are not being used. 5–6 teeth.
UK-supplied combs are heavier and thicker. You will have a problem keeping these combs in thin fine hair. Teeth are 3 cm long. Top bar 4–5 mm deep.
• Jackie Kennedy (back of the head) pillbox
• Coif/cap • Toque
• Widow’s coifs
68 | the hat magazine #99
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