A/W 24/25 style and
colour directions provided by Première Vision
4–6 July 2023
Parc des Expositions Paris Nord Villepinte
www.premierevision.com
The new season opens in Paris with Première
Vision. Twice yearly, the world’s designers and manufacturers come together here with a
profusion of ideas and a new creative dialogue to
celebrate the start of a new collection.
by Elly Stemerdink
Première Vision
paris | a/w 24/25
The July 2023 edition of Première Vision Paris welcomed 25,117 visitors, 70% of them from abroad. This edition confirmed the gradual but discernible return of visitors from Asia, in particular from China.
Deadstock fabrics
Nona Source
Visiting Première Vision with its 1,315 exhibitors spread out over four halls can be quite overwhelming. Therefore, guided tours in seven different languages were offered to visitors who were looking for some extra directions at the trends forums. For further guidance, the ‘a better way’ initiative – a sustainable programme for more transparent sourcing – was launched this season as a way to give buyers and brands better information and concrete solutions with regards to sustainable sourcing and production. Sustainable initiatives were highlighted through
simple, clear pictograms displayed directly on the stands of 290 participating exhibitors. Continuing their focus on sustainability, Première Vision outlined three trends for Autumn/ Winter 24/25: solar vision, symbolically capitalizing on a renewable energy source; augmented elegance, producing higher-quality fabrics for garments that last and thus reduce consumption; and natural inspiration and the digital medium, drawing inspiration from nature for a modern, present-day aesthetic. In the Smart Creation area (a space dedicated to sustainable innovation) a spotlight was put on a new approach to sourcing fabrics. Here, fabric collections were offerered by three players specialising in the resale of deadstocks. At this market, visitors could place orders for directly available fabrics with quantities ranging from 2 to approximately 60 metres.
Imbotex
Silk and
wool-based padding
Cotonea Cotton wadding
Also highlighted in the Smart Creation area were companies that source raw materials from textile waste or use waste from the agri-food industry in order to move away from intensive cultivation models that weaken soils and reduce biodiversity.
38 | the hat magazine #99
One of the exhibitors here was Cotonea, who produce a wide range of organic cotton fabrics, from satin to non-woven material such as wadding. The organic cotton is harvested and ginned in Uganda and Kyrgyzstan, and travels by ship or train to spinning mills in Germany and Turkey.
Imbotex presented upcycled and recyclable paddings. Their silk padding is made from recycled silk, blended with PLA (polylactic acid), a biodegradable, bio-based plastic made from sugarcane. The production process starts with turning leftover silk fabric into fibres. This is done completely mechanically, and no water or chemicals are involved. For the wool-based padding, waste wool from sheep in Bavaria in Germany is used.
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