TECHNIQUES
Cut from a square
Head-fitting
¼ sized cone shape, known as the crown bandeau – used on completely flat brims This was made from a square piece of fabric folded in half, and then half again (see also Issue 92).
brace – to be braced in with the head-fitting If you use a brace, you will need to recheck the head-fitting size. The brace will be
put into the brim and sewn behind the head-fitting ribbon. This is an extension of the crescent-shaped bandeau and can be used for lightweight and fabric-covered bandeaus. This is not suitable for felt or thicker fabrics due to the reduction in the head-fitting size.
Details of how to make a soft bandeau canvas inserted band
The Queen Mother famously had a form of the bandeau cupping method in her hats. To make a lightweight band head-fitting insert we will use
an elastic canvas or tarlatan to create a soft version. The head-fitting insert will be
Queen Mother wearing a hat with a bandeau
covered in a pleated fabric made to the head-fitting size of the customer.
Joined on the bias
Cut a piece of canvas on the bias with a depth of 13 cm and a width of the head-fitting size plus seam allowance.
Stretched and curved and joined
Stretch and use a bias join to make the head- fitting.
Cut a piece of fabric with the same size as the canvas and hand stitch the seam together. Fold the canvas on the fold line (see drawing) and cover it with the fabric.
Tip!
I have used the new Lancashire canvas from
Another shape extended on the side by setting the bandeau in at an angle
Insert the bandeau before the head- fitting ribbon or use it as the head- fitting ribbon. Sew the bandeau in along the head-fitting line. You don’t have to sew the bandeau in the head-fitting at a straight line; it can also be sewn in at an angle.
Parkin as this works best for soft inserted bands. Alternative interfacings are tarlatan or crinoline fabric (not crinoline braid).
The bandeau will also give you the option to add more decoration at this position. Finish the hat with a fitted silk lining (not one that has bulk, e.g. pleats in the tip of the crown, as this will encourage the hat to fly off when being worn).
Another way of attaching a hat or headpiece to the head is by using a blocked small button base or a blocked bandeau headband, as featured in Issue 89.
I hope I have managed to
give you a variety of ways of holding on those hats and
headdresses without the help of a hand. We look forward (literally) to
future trends. ‘A quiet luxury’, taking a leap
of faith into the unknown using the best work to bring us forward in time.
There is lots more to come next time.
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