Vol. 63, No. 3 autumn 2018 222


28. T e rub rail in place. Here the model has been cut from the building board and is ready for decks. Blocking is in place and the model is perfectly stable.


31. Deck supports: sawed deck beams and kerf bent edge supports.


this I was only partly successful—there were a few small gaps between the painted rub rails and the black sheer strake that I had to fi ll (using spackle), requiring masking and touch-up painting.


29. My preferred tools for applying thin CA. One can pick up a measured amount of CA by dipping the cut-off eye of a sewing needle into a puddle of CA. T en, poking the needle into the joint will deliver it. Clean the needle off by soaking it in acetone when it becomes clogged.


Typically, I tack-bond parts with thin CA, applying it with a sewing needle with its eye cut off (Figure 29) and then fl ood the joint with more CA when I am satisfi ed with the fi t. T e tack-bonds allow one to break the parts loose if repositioning is needed.


Fiber glassing and decks 30. T e inside of the hull glassed between the bulkheads.


thoroughly with hot water and bend and twist them into shape. I clamped them to the hull and let them dry for a couple of days, aſt er which there was only a little spring back. (Figure 27) I later painted them white and bonded them in place with thin CA aſt er the hull was fi nish painted. (Figure 28) My intent was to pre-fi nish as much as possible so I could add things like the rub rails without having to make repairs. In


I planned to mount the fi nished model on blocking, as if in a typical boatyard of the time. Aſt er I cut the model loose from the building board I added rough sawed and stained basswood blocks under the keel. T e assembly was fastened down with 3-inch deck screws. Later, dummy blocking was added, representing that used to prevent side-to- side movement of a real boat. It is important, when building almost any model, to determine how it will be mounted as early in the process as possible. T ere may be nothing worse than fi nishing a large sailing ship, masts, rigging, and all and then taking it off the building board only to fi nd there is no way to mount it!


Now I could glass the inside of the hull to stabilize the planking. I used a single layer of glass cloth embedded in epoxy. (Figure 30)


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