Nautical Research Journal 217
8. A thickness sanding set up using my drill press.
9. A pattern sander is simply a sanding drum with a wood or plastic disk the same diameter as the sanding sleeve attached to the bottom. T e photograph is for demonstration and does not use actual planking stock for the model.
10. Beginning to plank. T e clamps are standard binder clips available in many sizes at any offi ce supply outlet. A bit of square stock is slit, slid over the clip’s top, and glued in place.
assortment of thin saw blades and folded sandpaper. T e hull also had to be sanded fair before I could apply the caulking; I have a Minicraſt detail sander (Figure 12) that, along with some hand sanding, did most of the work.
One big hurdle in building this model was simulating the caulking in the seams. It was quite visible on the real boat and had to be seen, but not be obtrusive, on the model. I had once built a large model of a tugboat and was faced with the same problem. T ere I used Bondo body fi ller, a two-part material that in my shop is called “quarter inch putty”, working it into the seams and then “tooling” it by scraping it down and using a solvent soaked rag to press it into the
11. Planking complete before sanding things fair and widening the seams to fi nal width.
seams. T at worked but it was really messy, smelled bad, and the Bondo began setting up too fast for my taste. Here I decided to use another Bondo product, #907 Glazing and Spot Putty, a one-part material in a tube. (Figure 13) Figures 14-17 illustrate how I applied it. I tried all this on a test sample before committing myself. (Figure 18)
I am always worried about wood movement, particularly with a large model, from changes in humidity and I planned to fi berglass the inside of the hull to retard it. T at would come later in the build, aſt er the hull was cut loose from the building board. In retrospect the Bondo glazing putty proved to be somewhat harder and more brittle than I would have
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