Nautical Research Journal 219
16. Wipe off the remaining excess with an acetone soaked tissue. Make sure to use good ventilation!
steaming is not usually required. I dislike staining wood and did not on this model; the resulting color is, perhaps, a bit lighter than what is on the actual Lady Isabel today but it will darken with time, much like cherry does. T e cabin sides were built to the dimensions we found when measuring the original and there is a seam running lengthwise, right down the middle. My billet was not wide enough to make the cabin sides in one piece, but luckily the ones on the real boat were made from two pieces, too, and had the same seams in them. (Figure 19)
I should mention one of the handiest things when building a model of this size: a hospital or bedside tray table. (Figure 20) I had to turn the model around what seemed to be hundreds of times so I could work on both sides. By putting it on my tray table, which has casters, it was simple to spin and made life much easier. Models much like mine are available for around $50. Not having to pick up a model to move it every time makes the investment worthwhile.
Painting
While the model was still on the building board I started thinking about paint. I fi rst masked off the cabin sides, which would not be painted, a strip running from the bow to the stern where a molding would be applied, and another strip, just below the sheer plank, where a heavy rub rail would be glued
17. Lightly tool the seam with a “micro-brush” or something similar to depress the caulking slightly. When all this is done, the putty will push through to the other side and work like the plaster keys in a lath and plaster wall, locking things together.
18. My caulking test sample. It is best to try things fi rst before actually doing them on a model.
19. T e false keel and stems have been added, as have the cabin sides. T e hull is ready for painting. T e seam down the center of the cabin side is not caulked and is only barely visible.
on later. I then primed and sanded the hull, using white primer from a spray can (mine was white, sandable primer from Krylon). I made sure to test the fi nish paint I would use on the model over the primer before spraying it; I have been burned before so I always test fi rst, and so should you. T e primer showed up dings and imperfections, which I fi xed before marking the waterline using a sharp pencil
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