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Nautical Research Journal 221


25. Scratch stock for making half-round moldings.


24. Painted hull. Moldings and the rudder and propeller are yet to be added.


Moldings


T ere are a number of moldings around the model: half-round on the hull and quarter-round in other places, all fi nished natural. To make half-round moldings I machine notches in a section of broken hacksaw blade. (Figure 25) T e backs of these blades are soſt enough to cut with carbide cutting bits; I clamped the blade in a milling vise mounted to my metal lathe to do the work. T e result was a scratch stock that I used on the edges of lengths of wider pear wood to make the half-round shape. Sawing the shapes loose completed the moldings. My stock of pear was not long enough to make one-piece moldings and I had to scarf lengths together. Making perfect scarf joints is easy if you have a disk sander. Simply double-stick tape a fence to its table and push a length of molding between your fence and the disk to sand a long angle on the end. Do the same to a second piece and the parts will make a perfect scarf joint when glued together. (Figure 26) When I glue long pieces like these half rounds I use thin CA (and I used that for most of the remaining bonding on the model, too.)


Quarter-round molding starts out the same as half- round: I then thickness sand it to the proper thickness and rip it off the wider strip.


T e only molding that I could put on at this point was


26. Using a disk sander and a fence to make scarf joints.


27. One of the rub rails bent and clamped in place on the hull to dry.


the heavy rub rail at the bottom of the black sheer strake. T e others would have to wait until decks and other parts were installed. T e rub rails were heavy, triangular pieces that I made from basswood thinking it would be easier to bend. T at was something of a mistake and, thinking back on it, I probably should have used alder. Nevertheless, I was able to wet them


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