HAUTS-DE-FRANCE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
headlands of Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez give way to Pas-de-Calais’s vast rolling fi elds of cereals. Drive east and you’ll arrive at an area of marshland around Saint-Omer, famed for its market gardening, especially caulifl owers, chicory and carrots.
Stop off at the fascinating Maison du Marais for the full story of this UNESCO-listed biosphere where the postman still delivers by boat to island homes, and relax on a guided excursion by electric boat. Amongst the rich fl ora and fauna, I’m thrilled to spot the azure fl ash of a kingfi sher, not once but twice. Next morning I skirt Lille and the former mining area around Lens, now listed by UNESCO as a beacon of industrial regeneration for its natural spaces and heritage attractions. Two hours after leaving Saint-Omer, I arrive in the Avesnois PNR which stretches from the fortifi ed town of Le Quesnoy in the west to the tranquil lake of Val Joly in the east, the largest lake north of Paris. Enjoy a fl avour of the Avesnois not just in Maroilles cheese, but in cider, apple juice and craft beers. And there’s culture here, too, in the tranquil countryside. MusVerre at Sars-Poteries is an extraordinary museum and creative workshop celebrating the industry that thrived here from 1801 to 1937. Purpose-built in sober colours with clean lines and farmland views, MusVerre traces the history of local glassmaking, but also champions the work of
Clockwise from left: The small but beautiful village of Maroilles; the mill on the Helpe river at Maroilles; exploring the Audomarois biosphere reserve by boat; cows grazing on pastureland in the Seven Valleys; inset, a tasting platter at the Ferme du Pont des Loups; the view from MusVerre in the Avesnois PNR; the tranquil Lac du Val Joly in Avesnois
contemporary artists. Don’t miss the bousillés, one-off pieces produced by workers for family and friends – the glassworker’s art at its most imaginative.
MARNE VALLEY
From the Avesnois, I head south through Aisne for a welcome return to the delightful hilltop town of Laon. Wander the narrow streets of the historic quarter, climb the cathedral tower, and join a guided tour of the citadel’s underground passages. If time permits, head up the green slopes of La Cuve Saint-Vincent for a unique panorama of town and country.
South of Laon, the landscape changes again at Château-Thierry, where champagne vineyards line the south-facing slopes of the Marne Valley. Some 500 small winegrowers work in Aisne alone and, together with the larger Pannier champagne house, they account for 10% of all champagne
❯❯ Jun/Jul 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 97
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