SOUTHERN RHÔNE ❘ WINE VILLAGES O
n the road to Châteauneuf-du-Pape the vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, their scrubby vines grown wide and low to resist the ferocious mistral wind that thunders down the Rhône Valley to the Mediterranean. There’s no mistaking this is wine country, cultivated by the Romans and prized by the popes of old, who loved the sun- soaked ruby wines so much they made the village their summer home – the new château of the popes. In the mid-1300s when the Avignon popes settled in for the season, the population of around 2,000 consisted mostly of peasant farmers who made wine. Today, the population barely tops 2,500 and the world-renowned estates that produce wines of earthy majesty open their doors to anyone eager to discover the fruits of this distinctive terroir.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are made principally from a triumvirate of grapes that locals simply call ‘GSM’: Grenache (the reigning grape of the southern Rhône Valley), Syrah and Mourvèdre. Grenache dominates the Châteauneuf blends, producing rich, powerful, highly drinkable wines long on fruit (and alcohol, which can reach 16 per cent) but short on structure and freshness. Enter the ten other grape varieties used in this mostly blended appellation: though often only a tiny fraction of the blend, they account for the earthy, herbal and mineral notes and exhilarating range of expression these powerful wines are known for.
BOUNDLESS CREATIVITY
“The luck of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is we are free to do what we want. For me, the vitality of the appellation is the creativity, the emotion of each winemaker,” said Pierre Pastre of Château Fortia, long a benchmark in Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Château Fortia, founded in the 18th century, counts among its family winemakers Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarié, a First World War fighter pilot and a legend in France for his role in creating the AOC designation. Instituted in 1929, AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) defines the rules for each wine region to preserve the integrity and character of the wines. Châteauneuf- du-Pape was France’s first AOC wine. You can do nicely sipping a 2020 vintage now, but you’ll be well rewarded for splurging on an older vintage – or being patient. Châteauneuf-du-Papes are generally not meant for early consumption, but vinified slowly and released after a year or two of ageing. They are easily cellared for five to 20 years.
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Clockwise from above: The legendary Château Fortia in Châteauneuf- du-Pape; Château Fortia was founded in the 18th century; the château tasting room; it counts Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarié among its family winemakers; Châteauneuf-du-Pape was France’s first AOC wine
Jun/Jul 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 111
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