BORDEAUX ❘ CITY BREAK
5 MORE MUST-SEE PLACES
IN BORDEAUX MUSÉE D’AQUITAINE One of the largest regional history museums outside Paris, the Musée d’Aquitaine encompasses some 400,000 years. Highlights include a bas- relief of a pregnant woman dating from around 25,000 BC; gold treasure thought to be from the 1st or 2nd century BC; and the presumed tomb of Michel de Montaigne, the writer and philosopher, dating from 1593.
www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.fr/en
THE MOLLAT BOOKSHOP The biggest independent bookstore in France, Mollat has 16 different departments spread over some 2,700m2 of floor space. Located in the former home of the philosopher and author Montesquieu, it all makes for an atmospheric setting. The store organises events and signings and even produces its own popular podcast.
www.mollat.com
A CANELÉ SPECIALIST Aside from the world-famous wines, the star of the show in Bordeaux is undeniably the canelé. These cracking little cakes, flavoured with vanilla and rum, are crunchy on the outside with a melt-in-the-mouth middle. They can be found in most of the city’s pâtisseries, with La Toque Cuivrée, Baillardran and Cassonade among the best.
www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/local-specialities/cannele-and-bordeaux- delicacies
THE JACQUES CHABAN-DELMAS BRIDGE The tallest lift bridge in Europe, the Pont Jacques Chaban-Delmas is a sight to behold with its innovative drawbridge construction to allow cruise ships to pass underneath. Inaugurated in 2013, it measures 575m long and 77m high. Another new bridge, the Pont Simone-Veil, is due to open in 2024.
www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk
A DIVERSE DISTRICT
For something a little different shopping-wise, head south into the Saint-Michel area. A highlight here is the antiques/vintage hub, Les Brocanteurs du Passage Saint-Michel, spread over two levels and with its own café/restaurant. The famed flea market every Sunday is a bargain-hunter’s paradise. One of the city’s most vibrant and diverse districts, Saint- Michel was once the haunt of arriving seafarers. Despite the growing gentrification, it retains its multicultural roots in its varied food offering. Alternatively, the nearby covered market of Capucins showcases local specialities.
At the heart of the Saint-Michel neighbourhood is its Gothic basilica, built between the 14th and 17th centuries and listed by UNESCO. Standing beside it, the bell tower is the tallest in southwest France, at 114m, but is currently clad in scaffolding as it undergoes restoration.
A PANORAMIC VIEW For now, the best place for a panoramic view is the Pey- Berland bell tower, which dates from the 15th century and is classified as a Monument Historique. Following a climb of 229 steps up a steep spiral staircase, there is a rather narrow access door, so go easy on the canelés beforehand. It’s worth it, though, for the spectacular 360° vista over the city.
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L’ENTREPÔT SAINT GERMAIN A total dreamland for fans of anything vintage, second-hand or antique, this extraordinary emporium is hidden away in a nondescript street near the station but it’s absolutely worth a visit. Filled to the rafters (quite literally) with everything from old French furniture to pinball machines and vinyl records, the vast warehouse is a veritable museum.
www.depotventebordeaux.com
For lovers of vintage, Les Brocanteurs du Passage Saint-Michel is a must Jun/Jul 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 91
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