WINE VILLAGES ❘ SOUTHERN RHÔNE
“FOR ALL ITS LOFTY STATURE IN THE WINE WORLD, THE VILLAGE IS REFRESHINGLY DOWN TO EARTH”
For all its lofty stature in the wine world, the village is refreshingly down to earth. To sample the wines all around you, pop into one of the many estate tasting rooms. Visitors are given a warm welcome and a dégustation at some of the appellation’s most celebrated names: Fortia, Usseglio (both Raymond and Pierre), Domaine de Vieux Télégraphe, Ogier, Beaucastel, along with a host of fine younger producers.
If you’re short on time or want to taste several domaines and vintages side by side, your best bet is the new Vinothèque. Under the arched ceilings of this state-of-the-art tasting room set in an ancient wine cave, you can put yourself in the hands of an expert or custom-design your own tasting from the dozens of estates represented here. This is a good idea for wine lovers and buyers alike, as these appellations are an investment – bottles start at around €25, with top vintages commanding upwards of €75. The Vinothèque is also an excellent place to sample Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s dazzling whites, ranging in style from fresh and lively to lush, elegant nectars that can be cellared like a red. All of the wines can be purchased at Vinadea, just above the Vinothèque, which carries some 200 wines from 120 estates and also hosts tastings. The pleasures of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are not limited to enjoying fine wines. The village is charming to explore and since the reopening of La Mère Germaine hotel and its Michelin-starred restaurant, it has reclaimed its historic status as a gastronomic destination.
112 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Jun/Jul 2023
The hotel and restaurant were once the domain of cordon bleu chef Germaine Vion, who put Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the culinary map in 1922 when she left her position in Paris as chef to the presidents of France to relocate to this quiet Provençal village. By 1932, her hotel-restaurant had earned two Michelin stars and was a major stop for well-heeled motorists and French celebrities, such as Mistinguett, Fernandel and Jean Gabin, en route to the Riviera.
NEW LEASE OF LIFE
But in the intervening years, the restaurant and hotel lost their sheen. Isabelle and Arnaud Strasser, who adored the wines of the region, recognised their potential and set about restoring the 16th- and 18th-century townhouses set in the pretty square at the foot of the village. The dazzling new La Mère Germaine restaurant earned a Michelin star within seven months of opening. Now, with two-star Belgian chef Christophe Hardiquest at the helm, diners can rely on his refined market-driven menu, accompanied by stellar local wines, for an afternoon or evening of gastronomic wonder – whether dining under the soaring dining room’s charming frescoes or enjoying the outdoor terraces’ sweeping views over vineyards to Avignon’s Palais des Papes. But the pleasure doesn’t end here. Across the street at the stylish La Mère Germaine hotel, guests are enveloped in chic elegance, with all the lavish touches you’d find in a top Parisian hotel, all delivered with a deeply Provençal soul, of course.
IMAGES © ILYA KAGAN, TEDDY VERNEUIL, LA MÈRE GERMAINE/FACEBOOK, VPA/G KESSLER & LEZBROZ
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132
