SLOW TOURISM ❘ TARN


Clockwise from top: Striking Puycelsi rising from the landscape; exploring the medieval ramparts of Puycelsi; Castelnau-de- Montmiral’s ancient beauty


“I HEAD OFF FOR A WANDER AROUND THE WARREN OF TWISTED ALLEYWAYS AND SMALL SQUARES OF THIS FORTIFIED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE”


The final stage of my slow tourism Tarn jaunt is another Plus Beau Village, and the one which has perhaps the most characterful medieval ambience: Puycelsi.


After a splendid lunch with sublime terrace views at Le Jardin de Lys (www.lejardindeslys- puycelci.fr), I head off for a wander around the warren of twisted alleyways and small squares of this fortified medieval village built on a huge rock overlooking the River Vère. Known as “the fortress in the woods”, I loved its beautifully preserved colombage (half-timbered) houses and the Église Saint-Corneille with its astonishing blue painted ceiling.


It is the perfect place to conclude my laid-back voyage of discovery in quiet contemplation, in the knowledge that I’ve only scratched the (admittedly very attractive) surface of ‘Slow Tarn’ and will be back for more one day. FT


74 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Jun/Jul 2023 TARN ESSENTIALS


GETTING THERE Fly to Toulouse-Blagnac airport from various UK airports. The capital of Tarn, Albi, is about an hour from there via the A68, with the Gaillac turn-off just before it. From Gaillac you can easily explore the winemaking region and the Plus Beaux Villages of Cordes-sur-Ciel, Puycelsi and Castelnau-de-Montmiral.


WHERE TO STAY Justin stayed at Domaine du Buc, a delightful chambre d’hôtes over 10 hectares with lovely gardens, magnificent cypress and magnolias and a swimming pool. The separate pigeonnier, designed in a more contemporary style, has been converted into a luxury guesthouse while in the main property there are five guest rooms and a studio apartment, ideal for families. An idyllic spot where you’ll be treated like a lord or lady by genial hostess Brigitte. www.domainedubuc.com/en


CONTACTS www.tourisme-tarn.com/uk, www.la-toscane-occitane.com/en


IMAGES © ENTRE 2 POLES, MARY QUINCY


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