CITY BREAK ❘ BORDEAUX
“ A FORMER SUBMARINE BASE BUILT BY THE GERMANS DURING THE WAR IS HOME TO THE LARGEST DIGITAL ART GALLERY IN THE WORLD”
soundtrack that includes Pink Floyd and The Doors. An enjoyable walk along the water brings you to another celebrated attraction, the futuristic Cité du Vin, devoted to the world of wine. Recently reopened with a newly designed permanent exhibition, the museum is also set to launch a sensory exhibition focused on tasting. Just opposite is a gourmet food market, Les Halles de Bacalan, where purchases can be eaten at wooden benches.
A BRIGHT FUTURE
Clockwise from above: one of the city’s most famous buildings, the Grand-Théâtre, home to the national opera; the futuristic building of the Cité du Vin; the latest dazzling exhibition at Les Bassins des Lumières
The square here is home to no less than three classified monuments. As well as the tower itself, there’s the Gothic cathedral of Saint-André, dating mainly from the 13th and 14th centuries, and the impressive Palais Rohan, now the city hall, built in the 18th century. Take a pause at Le Café Français, a traditional brasserie from 1899, to soak it all up. A short tram ride to the north, the picturesque district of Chartrons was once the main centre for the city’s wine trade. Today, this serene neighbourhood feels rather more like a village, and at its core is the long and leafy street, Rue Notre- Dame, lined with independent boutiques, art galleries and antique and bric-a-brac stores.
MARITIME MEMORIES
As well as its architectural heritage, the city is notable for its rich nautical history. To discover this, head to the docks just north of Chartrons, the Bassins à Flot, where a maritime museum opened in 2019. In recent years, this former industrial area has given way to cultural sites, restaurants and bars – though few can beat the atmospheric setting of the IBoat, a former ferry, with a concert/club space, canteen and terrace. At the centre of it all is the huge hulking slab of concrete that dominates the district. A former submarine base built by the Germans during the Second World War, it is now home to the Bassins des Lumières, the largest digital art gallery in the world, with monumental artworks projected across the walls and water. Akin to being submerged in a giant kaleidoscope, the latest exhibition sees the works of Gaudí and Dalí set to a
92 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Jun/Jul 2023 BORDEAUX ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE BY PLANE Fly to Bordeaux- Mérignac Airport and take the regular shuttle bus into the city centre. The new tram link connecting the airport with the city is due to open soon too.
BY TRAIN Alternatively, the high-speed TGV train from Paris to
Bordeaux Saint-Jean takes just over two hours. Once in Bordeaux, the City Pass is a great option, as it entitles the holder to unlimited transportation on the tram, bus and river ferry, as well as giving access to various attractions.
USEFUL CONTACTS Bordeaux Tourist Office
www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk
Looking ahead, things show no sign of slowing down either. Among several notable hotel openings, the design-led four- star, FirstName, with its stylish bar, in Mériadeck has already been drawing acclaim. Elsewhere, a swathe of new restaurants includes one devoted to the culinary heritage of refugee and immigrant women, Marie Curry, in Saint-Michel. Then there’s the new covered food market opening near the station. The coming months will also see several international sports events heading to Bordeaux. As well as the Tour de France passing through in early July, the city will host five Rugby World Cup matches in September. Next year, the Olympic Games will arrive, with several football matches held here. There are even rumours of a new London-to-Bordeaux Eurostar. In any event, with the Sleeping Beauty wide awake, there’s certainly a buzz about Bordeaux just now – making it the ideal time to visit. FT
IMAGES © BORDEAUX TOURISM AND CONVENTIONS, ALBAN GILBERT, TEDDY VERNEUIL, CAROLINE HARRAP
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