CITY BREAK ❘ BORDEAUX


where tables and chairs spread out over the cobbles. Among the most picturesque spots for a breather is Place Saint-Pierre, shaded by sweet-chestnut trees, with its Gothic church. Alternatively, Place Camille Jullian, setting for the much-loved indie Cinéma Utopia, is a favourite with locals – or another popular one is Place du Palais, next to the Porte Cailhau gate, once a main entrance to the city. Speaking of which, five of the old city gates remain today, marking the original perimeter walls. Dating from the 15th century, the Porte Cailhau and Grosse Cloche are the oldest, and both look like they’re straight out of a fairy tale. The latter is also one of the oldest belfries in France.


BORDEAUX BUCKET LIST The first thing on most people’s Bordeaux bucket list, however, is usually Place de la Bourse, a majestic arc of neoclassical architecture from the 18th century. It’s also the setting for the largest water mirror in the world, reflecting the grandiose buildings behind, and an essential stop for an Insta-snap. Another popular destination is Rue Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe at 1.2km. Away from the chain stores, the side streets are full of interesting independents often selling locally-made products. Hidden behind department store Galeries Lafayette, Place Puy Paulin provides a calm place for a coffee.


At the top of Rue Sainte-Catherine is the city’s most iconic square, Place de la Comédie. Famed for its 18th-century opera house, the Grand-Théâtre, it’s also the setting for the five-star InterContinental hotel, where Gordon Ramsay has a Michelin two-star restaurant. The surrounding streets of the ‘Golden Triangle’ are studded with luxury brands.


Clockwise from below: The 15th-century bell tower, the fairy-tale


Grosse Cloche; one of the many narrow, winding streets; the Chartrons district has a village feel; a view across the rooftops; there is a pretty view around every corner in the city of Bordeaux; the Pont de Pierre


ON THE WINE TRAIL As the wine capital of the world, a trip into the surrounding vineyards of Bordeaux is not to be missed. Literally hundreds of estates are open for visits with everything from tours and tastings to workshops. The tourist office provides a helpful summary of exactly what’s on offer in a dedicated section on its website. www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/bordeaux- vineyards-and-wines


For something a little bit special,


though, it’s hard to beat a stay in the heart of the vineyards at Les Sources de Caudalie, a five-star Palace hotel, at Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Here, you can also enjoy a guided tour


of the estate’s 16th-century tower, and underground cellars, complete with a tasting of its famous wines. Finish the day with dinner in the hotel’s Michelin two-star restaurant. sources-caudalie.com Back in the city itself, as well as the celebrated Cité du Vin, don’t miss


the museum devoted specifically to the wines of Bordeaux, Musée du Vin et du Négoce. To buy a nice bottle to take home, the specialist wine store, L’Intendant, with its spectacular spiral staircase, comes highly recommended. Lastly, some good news for vin enthusiasts: the Bordeaux wine festival will now become an annual event, starting from this June. www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com


90 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Jun/Jul 2023


IMAGES © CAROLINE HARRAP, BORDEAUX TOURISM AND CONVENTIONS, NICOLAS DUFFAURE, CYRIL COSSON, TEDDY VERNEUIL


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