MICHELIN MAGIC ❘ TASTE THE TERROIR
CHEESE BOARD
With Nick Bayne, cheese specialist at The Fine Cheese Co.
Aveyron is known not only for its eponymous river and dramatic valleys hosting beautiful, hilly towns, but also for its sheep. Accompanying the arrival of summer are the young, plump ewe’s cheeses made of spring milk, fatty and full of character. Cazelle de Saint Affrique and Lou Rocaillou spring to mind as lovely little tuffets bursting with lanolin and walnutty flavours. But, of course, these all manage to be dwarfed by perhaps France’s most famous cheese: Roquefort. Millions of years ago, the collapse of
the area’s mountains resulted in the Combalou caves of bucolic Roquefort- sur-Soulzon. The fissures in the stone are the vehicle by which air and moisture travel into the caves, creating the perfect environment for ageing blue cheese. Outside, Lacaune ewes graze upon the rough shrubbery and grass of the plateau, and since the 1st century the cheeses made with their raw milk have been matured within the Combalou system. The OG strain of Penicillium roqueforti dwells within these caves, and traditionally was nurtured on loaves of stale rye sourdough to be added to the milk. Turned and pierced in the caves by affineurs, Roquefort matures to the rich, powerful cheese we all love to enjoy with a glass of Sauternes.
www.finecheese.co.uk
SEASIDE SUPERSTAR Well done, Chef!
On the pretty island of Noirmoutier, just off the French coast in the Bay of Biscay, tucked away in the peaceful port of L’Herbaudière, you’ll find one of this year’s most talked-about restaurants. The province of chef Alexandre Couillon, La Marine was the only new
restaurant in France to be awarded the hallowed three stars in this year’s Michelin Guide. And Michelin could not have been more effusive in its praise. “An authentic exploration of the ocean and edible coastal plants, Chef ’s cookery brings a unique culinary approach to the French gastronomic landscape,” it said. “Streamlined and fully rooted in this terroir, the chef’s creations vary throughout the seasons with the plants gathered along the shore and fresh seafood from Noirmoutier fish market. The tastes are striking and bold, the produce quality is exceptional, and the cooking methods – where braising predominates – are exacting. Among the dishes that impressed the Guide’s inspectors, the braised artisanally-fished mackerel, beetroot and parsley foam and the crispy buckwheat dessert, caramel mousse, candied citrus fruit and sea lettuce sorbet are among the monuments to modern cuisine.” The restaurant’s excellent service, led by Couillon’s wife, Céline, was also singled out for praise. Michelin Guide international director Gwendal Poullenec added that it was ‘worth the detour’ because it “leaves us forever changed”. See if he’s right: dinner will set you back €250 for nine courses.
www.alexandrecouillon.com
From top: Alexandre and Céline Couillon pick up three stars for La Marine at this year’s Michelin Awards; La Marine’s dishes are things of beauty
BE SURE TO TRY SOME OF NOIRMOUTIER’S FAMOUS LOCAL PRODUCE WHILE YOU’RE THERE FOR YOUR PANIER
OYSTERS
The oyster has long been cultivated on Noirmoutier and is well loved for its delicate flesh and taste of iodine. The perfect environment plus a dedicated and skilled community of oyster farmers guarantees each morsel is perfection.
SALT
Salt harvesting began here with Benedictine monks in the 5th century and has been passed down from generation to generation. You can buy packets of this fragrant ‘white gold’ directly from the salt makers to take home a little taste of Noirmoutier.
POTATOES
Potatoes thrive in the mild climate, salty air and sandy soil enriched by seaweed, which is where they get their unique flavour. The four local varieties are the Bonnotte, the Sirtema, the Lady Christl and the Charlotte.
Jun/Jul 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 53
IMAGES © LES GRANDES TABLES DU MONDE, MICHELIN 2023, JS EVRARD, PASCAL BELTRAMI, SHUTTERSTOCK
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