90
FORMULATIONS
NAOLYS
NIGHT CREAM FOR MATURE SKINS PHASE INGREDIENTS/ INCI NAME
A Water/aqua Glycerin
Glyccyrhetinic acid B Chondrus crispus (carrageenan) C Sucrose polystearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) olea europea
(olive) oil unsaponifiables Caprylic capric triglycerides Argania spinosa kernel oil
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) Shorea robusta seed oil Orbignya barbosiana butter
D Fragrance
E OvernightEnhance [MJ+C] (Mirabilis jalapa callus extract / glycerin) F Beet juice in water 1%
% W/W 62.8 5.0 0.1 1.0
8.0 4.5
1.0 4.5 3.0 2.0 0.6 0.5
2 dp
Procedure: Heat the phase A at 75°C while stirring. Then dust the phase B in order not to create agglomerates. Meanwhile heat the phase C at 75°C. When the phase C has reached the temperature, pour the phase C into (A+B) while hardly stirring. Keep the stirring during 35 min and start to cool. At 45°C add the phase D. At 40°C add the phase E. Put 2 drops of the natural colour solution. At 25°C, empty the cream.
PROVITAL
GAME OVER TO SUNBURN PHASE INGREDIENTS
A1 Neossance® Hemisqualane A2 Kahlresin 5725 MB A3 Silk touch Oil INCI NAME C13-15 Alkane
Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil,Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Gardenia Taitensis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate,BHT, Tocopherol
A4 Oleo Z75C5C B1 NACOL 22-98
B2 Kahlwax 6607 L MB B3 dermofeel®
viscolid MB C1 Lingostem™ C2 Senseryn™
C3 MAKIBASE SEB C4 Soleil des Iles
Zinc Oxide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil,
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Aqua,Glycerin,Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract,Xanthan Gum,Sodium Benzoate,Citric Acid,Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate
Propanediol,Glycerin,Humulus Lupulus Extract,Citric Acid
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Parfum ( Fragrance) SPLR % W/W 1 2 33.85 1.50 3 10.00
RAHN
LIFTING LOTION PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Water demin.
INCI NAME Water
dermosoft Pentiol eco Pentylene Glycol
dermosoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Water, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Ani-sate
B Keltrol CG-SFT Kelcogel CG-HA
C WITARIX MCT 60/40 coconut based
dermofeel Toco 70 non-GMO
Tego Alkanol 1618 Tegin M Pellets Tego Care PSC 3
D Citric Acid solution E Perfume Freschezza
10% R458 F LIFTONIN®-QI
Xanthan Gum Gellan Gum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate Citric Acid, Water
Fragrance
Propanediol, Water, Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Stem Extract, Citric Acid
SPLR % W/W 66.10
1
2 3.00 2 3.00 3 0.50
3 0.10 4 17.00
2 0.20 2 1.00
2 2.00 2 3.00
1 1.00 5 0.10 6 3.00
Procedure: Mix B and add to A while stirring, the phase must be homogenous / heat to 75°C / Mix C and heat to 75°C while stirring / Add A&B to C while stirring strongly, homogenise and cool to 40°C while stirring / Add the remaining ingredients separately, homogenise strongly, cool to 25°C while stirring. Properties: pH-value: 5.0 - 5.5 Appearance: Slightly yellowish emulsion Stability: Stable for more than 3 months at 5°, 25°, 40°C
Suppliers: 1. several 2. Evonik 3. CP Kelco 4. IOI OLEO GmbH 5. Huber the Nose 6. RAHN AG
4 25.00
5 1.00 2 10.00
6 10.00 3 1.50
3 2.00 7
5.00 8 0.15
Procedure: In a beaker, mix the ingredients of phase A together with a dispersing blade while heating up to 75˚C. In another beaker, mix and heat the ingredients of phase B with magnetic stirrer up to 85˚C. Add phase B into phase A under stirring. Mix C.1 and C.2 together then add this mix to C.3 and C.4. When homogeneous decrease the temperature to 70˚C for the addition of phase C. Fill in the silicone moulds at 70˚C. Leave them still until its complete solidification. Properties: Appearance: white solid pH: NA( Anhydrous) Viscosity: NA( Solid) Stability Test: 3 months at 50˚C, 40˚C and RT
Suppliers: 1. Centerchem 2. Kahlwax 3. Provital 4. Sunjin Beauty Science 5. Sasol 6. Evonik 7. Daito Kasei 8. KAO EquiBiotics LRh B Beausens® Air
BiosControl® Element IM
ROELMI HPC
BIOTIC SUNLIT BRONZER PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Celus-Bi® Feel 10 INCI NAME
Zea Mays Starch, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Glycerin Mica
Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491 Mica, CI 77891, Tin oxide CI 77491, Mica Silica
Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Pelargonate o-Cymen-5-ol
Tocopheryl Acetate
% W/W 12.00 27.90 20.00 10.00 10.00 3.00 1.00
10.00 5.00 0.10 1.00
Procedure: Weight the components of Phase A and mix. Weight the components of Phase B and heat up to 40+/-2°C under stirring. Cool Phase B at room temperature under stirring. Add phase B (if necessary heat it to 35+/- 2°C) to Phase A little by little and mix until the product is homogeneous. Compact the powder. Properties: Appearance: Pearly powder Stability: (3 months at 4, 25, 40°C): YES pH: n.a Viscosity: (BrookField Mod. RVDV-E): n.a.
PERSONAL CARE July 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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