30 ANTI-AGEING
Isodon japonicus extract to reverse gravity impact
Celine Laperdrix, Gabrielle Moro, Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallée - Codif International ABSTRACT
Science has definitely shown and convinced consumers of the pro-ageing action of our exposome. Sun exposure, pollution, tobacco but also lifestyle are directly affecting skin structure and youth. Among all these factors, gravity remains a parameter that cannot be avoided and mastered. With ageing, skin less firm and subject to the effects of gravity, stretches without being able to retract; accentuating the depth of wrinkles. Bioinspired by Isodon japonicus and its ability to stand upright despite the effect of gravity, Codif’s laboratories have developed an extract able to improve the structural quality of the skin in order to decrease signs of ageing while minimizing the impact of gravity constraint on the skin.
The exposome concept was introduced by the American cancer epidemiologist Christopher Wild in 2005 as a way to explain the complex exposures we face as humans.1
Indeed, the
exposome represents the totality of exposures we are in front of throughout our complete lives. It includes the food we ingest, the air we breathe, the objects we touch, the psychological stresses we face, the activities in which we engage, and the broader social factors that impact our health.1-7
differences in specific organs, it is very difficult to propose single definition of the exposome. Skin is a barrier organ exposed to lifelong
to a large variety of environmental factors. Its responses and its development traits is well known to be dependent on various internal (genetical and non-genetical) factors. That explains the particularity of skin exposome. Key review papers and relevant (epidemiological, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical) studies were published to determine the key elements of the exposome influencing skin ageing.8,9 Skin ageing processes are defined by
phenotypic and metabolic changes in all cutaneous cells as well as structural and functional changes in extracellular matrix components such as collagens, elastin, and proteoglycans that are required to provide tensile strength, elasticity.10
PERSONAL CARE July 2023 The loss of matrix components and unqualitative productions
Figure 1: Holistic Beauty Wheel. Schematic map of the biological, environmental, and lifestyle factors influencing skin health and skin ageing (extracted from Khmadalaze, 2022)
explain the fail of skin biomechanical properties occurring decreasing firmness, wrinkles, sagging and ptosis. Skin experts do agree concerning sun
Because of the
exposure, pollution and tobacco, well known to trigger molecular processes that damage the skin structure, leading to the aged skin appearance and mechanisms. Others, as lifestyle factors, more and more studied, are now recognized to potentiate skin ageing. All these factors have been shown to act separately
or in combination with each other; aggravating the process. All concern skin structures, skin microbiota and both (Figure 1). Among all these factors, genetic is
impossible to control and its direct impact on skin, difficult to reduce. Protein synthesis, DNA damages, telomere shortening susceptibility, micro-RNA regulations, DNA mutations, are all coming from genes, inherited from previous generation, depending on each one. However, there is one external factor impossible to control, whatever the regulating of the exposome: gravity. Weight applied on earth permanently
influences the resistance of the skin tissues. With age, when the production of collagen and elastin is diminished, the skin becomes less firm and more subject to the effects of gravity. Visco-elasticity balance of the skin is modified.11 Elasticity is lost and the viscous constant is more expressed. As result, the skin stretches without being able to retract and to come back to its initial position. With gravity, volumes position themselves
following down direction. Tissues becomes slack, particularly in the lower face: falling skin, emergence of marked nasal furrows, undefined contouring of the oval of the face, inversion of the V shape, jowls apparition. In addition, it is also important to mention that this vertical positioning of the lower face gives also severe
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