56 SKIN CARE


induced gene expression of the pro- inflammatory interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 as expected (Figure 1D). Subsequent treatment with Zn-peptide complex or the hexapeptide alone significantly inhibited UVB-induced gene expression of both interleukins similarly to retinol whereas zinc alone had no effect. The results suggest that the observed effect of Zn- peptide can be attributed to the hexapeptide part of the complex.


Anti-acne and anti-ageing effect of Zn-peptide in vivo In vivo study on human subjects with acne- prone skin showed that Zn-peptide significantly improved acneic skin conditions, reduced the number of the inflammatory acne lesions (Figure 2), sebum level (Figure 3A), number of skin pores (Figure 3B, 3C), it also decreased the amount of protoporphyrin IX corresponding to the C. acnes number (Figure 4) and the overall skin redness (Figure 5A, 5B). Zn-peptide also stimulated collagen


production leading to the effective reduction of wrinkles and elasticity improvement (Figure 6) representing the anti-ageing activity. In most cases, both the anti-acne and anti-ageing effects of Zn-peptide were better than that of 0.2% retinol. Moreover, retinol worsened many skin


parameters after two weeks of treatment when it increased sebum production (Figure 3A), C. acnes number (Figure 4) and the overall skin redness suggesting skin irritation (Figure 5A, 5B). Retinol also gradually increased TEWL values


reflecting skin barrier impairment (Figure 5C). Zn- peptide, on the other hand, significantly reduced TEWL representing skin barrier reinforcement.


Conclusion Taken together, zinc hexapeptide complex is a new cosmetic active ingredient with anti-acne and anti-ageing activity superior to retinol. Its major benefit is the complex mechanism of action inhibiting all key events in acne pathogenesis: sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinization, C. acnes overgrowth and inflammation (Figure 7). It also stimulates collagen production


leading to the effective wrinkle reduction and elasticity improvement representing the anti- ageing activity. The hexapeptide component is highly active itself while the presence of zinc


A


200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Placebo C


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Placebo


Collagen ** ***


*** * B


130 120 110 100 90 80 70 60


Zn-peptide 13.5 µg/mL


Wrinkle depth *** *** ** ** *** *** ***


Retinol 0.2%


Placebo D 0 weeks


0 weeks ■ 2 weeks ■ 4 weeks ■ 6 weeks ■ Elasticity R2


*


Zn-peptide 13.5 µg/mL


Zn-peptide 13.5 µg/mL 6 weeks


Retinol 0.2%


Zn-peptide 13.5 µg/mL


Retinol 0.2%


Figure 6: Zn-peptide stimulated collagen production, reduced wrinkles and increased skin elasticity better than retinol. Collagen level was determined by an image analysis of pictures obtained by reflectance confocal microscopy (A). Skin elasticity represented by a parameter R2 was determined by a cutometer (B). Wrinkle depth was determined by a 3D camera: (C) quantification, (D) representative images.


in the complex further enhances the effect on the sebum production and the antimicrobial activity. We also showed that retinol worsened many


skin parameters and irritated the skin at the beginning of the treatment. It also caused skin barrier disruption after long-term use. The well- known irritation potential of retinol hinders its use by many people especially those with the sensitive skin. On the other hand, Zn-peptide did not


have any negative adverse effects and even reinforced the skin barrier function making it an effective, safer retinol alternative.


References 1. Moradi Tuchayi S, Makrantonaki E, Ganceviciene R, Dessinioti C, Feldman SR, Zouboulis CC. Acne vulgaris. Nat. Rev. Dis. Primers. 1, 15029 (2015)


PC


2. da Cunha MG, Fonseca FLA, Machado CDAS. Androgenic hormone profile of adult women with acne. Dermatology. 226, 167–171. (2013)


3. Fritsch M, Orfanos CE, Zouboulis CC. Sebocytes are the key regulators of androgen homeostasis in human skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 116, 793–800 (2001)


4. Anderson KM, Liao S. Selective retention of dihydrotestosterone by prostatic nuclei. Nature. 219, 277–279. (1968)


5. Sansone G, Reisner RM. Differential rates of conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone in acne and in normal human skin--a possible pathogenic factor in acne. J. Invest. Dermatol. 56, 366–372. (1971)


6. Thiboutot DM. The role of follicular hyperkeratinization in acne. J. Dermatol. Treat. 11, 5–8. (2000)


7. McLaughlin J, Watterson S, Layton AM, Bjourson AJ, Barnard E, McDowell A. Propionibacterium acnes and Acne Vulgaris: New Insights from the Integration of Population Genetic, Multi-Omic, Biochemical and Host- Microbe Studies. Microorganisms. 7. (2019)


Epithelial hyperkeratinization


Zn-peptide, retinol


8. Dréno B, Pécastaings S, Corvec S, Veraldi S, Khammari A, Roques C. Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 32, 5–14. (2018)


Increased sebum production


Inflammation Cutibacterium acnes


Zn-peptide, retinol


Zn-peptide, retinol Zn-peptide


Figure 7: Anti-acne mechanism of action of the zinc hexapeptide complex targeting all key events in acne pathogenesis and its comparison to retinol


PERSONAL CARE July 2023


9. Tanghetti EA. The Role of Inflammation in the Pathology of Acne. J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 6, 27–35. (2013)


10. Patwardhan SV, Richter C, Vogt A, Blume- Peytavi U, Canfield D, Kottner J. Measuring acne using Coproporphyrin III, Protoporphyrin IX, and lesion-specific inflammation: an exploratory study. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 309, 159–167. (2017)


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Wrinkle depth (% of placebo)


Collagen (% of placebo)


Elasticity (% of placebo)


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