46 ANTI-AGEING
Face sculpting with rosewood biofunctional
Anne Clay Viardot, Christophe Capallere, Florian Labarrade, Yolene Ferreira, Isabelle Imbert - Ashland
Liftyl™ biofunctional is a premium rosewood extract to visibly lift and redefine facial contours, and an alternative to retinol with similar-proven efficacy and no irritation side effects. The extract is based on the latest genomic research in facial morphology and face sculpting. Facial morphology refers to a series of many different complex traits, each influenced by genetic and environmental factors. The shape of the face is genetically determined, and much research has been devoted to the study of facial morphology genes.1 Recent work, including genome-wide association studies involving thousands of participants, has identified many genetic loci influencing facial shape and contours.2,3
healthy tropical forest ecosystems and provide important resources for forest-dependent indigenous and local communities.
Upcycling wood chips from rosewood essential oil The rosewood extract is obtained from the species Aniba rosaeodora sustainably grown in plantations in Peru with full traceability and control over the entire supply chain from planting, growing, and harvesting the rosewood, to processing the essential oil by steam distillation without adding processing aids or any other chemical during the process. Wood chips depleted in oil are used for
Following
comprehensive ethno-genomic research in facial morphology, the extract has been evaluated on key influential markers modulating facial morphology and clinically tested on Caucasian and Asian skin.
The face sculpting movement This rosewood extract leverages the face sculpting consumer trend powered by influencers worldwide. According to TikTok, face sculpting is one of the hottest skincare trends. Lately, it is impossible to scroll through beauty-related videos on TikTok without seeing various ‘face lifting’ or ‘sculpting’ techniques. Face sculpting tools, such as Gua Sha, went viral on TikTok and are meant to mimic the effects of a lifting, firming, tightening facial, all in a matter of minutes and achieved in the comfort of one’s home. While Gua Sha has gained high popularity
among women today, the procedure has an ancient history in China. Gua Sha has been extensively leveraged by the ancient Chinese as a traditional practice used 700 years ago in the Ming Dynasty between 1368-1644. The Gua Sha practice is known for treating the body holistically: the Gua sha creates a friction and supports the notion that it boosts circulation, leading to a good health.
Rosewood: a noble wood prized for sculpture The rosewood is a tropical tree native to South America, India, Pakistan, and Madagascar. The wood from the rosewood tree is highly prized for its beauty, workability, and durability, which is ideal for making high-end musical instruments and furniture, such as classic
PERSONAL CARE July 2023
the extraction of rosewood by supercritical CO2 extraction using a bio-based cosolvent. Rosewood is part of a circular economy model, creating value out of a by-product, with a minimal use of natural resources and supporting the local and rural industry.
Key influential markers associated with face sculpting and skin ageing Ashland scientists used in silico
research to explore and map all markers (genes, proteins, RNAs) involved in face sculpting and
then to study the expression of some
style Hongmu in China. The growth in the global demand for over the past decade has brought many rosewood species to the brink of extinction. Another reason rosewood is desired is for the benefits of its essential oil that is extracted from the wood by steaming chips of rosewood. The fragrant oil is used in high end fragrances, aromatherapy, holistic treatments, and in cosmetics for its rejuvenating skin benefits. It is said to help with the healing of scars, acne, and stretch marks. The alluring fragrance of rosewood essential
oil made demand skyrocket, especially during the 18th century in the field of perfume- making. Rosewood is now protected by CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) to preserve this rare and noble wood. A CITES- protected rosewood is a sustainable rosewood: CITES ensures the traceability from the tree plantation to the final manufactured product. The regulation of most internationally
traded species of rosewood can help maintain
markers in Asian and Caucasian skin, as well as their expression in aged skin. Firstly, data mining was used to identify key
influential markers related to face sculpting. Data mining is the process of using computers to explore and analyze, by automatic or semi- automatic means, large amounts of data in order to discover useful patterns, trends, or relationships.4 In silico research was used to explore
influential markers related to face sculpting in a large amount of data published in the scientific literature. Data mining revealed around 300 markers related to face sculpting and relationships between these markers (Figure 1). Data mining helped identify some genetic
determinants of the shape of facial contours from genome-wide association studies. Some components related to face sculpting were shown to be specific to certain ethnicities, and/ or specific to certain regions of the face, such as the cheeks or the lip corners. In vitro and ex vivo studies were carried out
to confirm that these markers were expressed in human skin, and that their expression was
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
