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and HRT affect markers of epidermal and dermal ageing in relation to skin structure and biomechanical function. This research found that epidermal morphology, CD44 expression, lipid biosynthesis and ceramide abundance were impacted by menopause, with the impact being reduced in users of HRT.10 The impact of psychological disruption
caused by menopause can be reflected in the findings of a survey of 2,000 women currently experiencing menopause or premenopausal symptoms across the UK. The survey found that 18% of respondents were looking to leave their jobs because of the menopause, of which the leading cause was the pressure put on them by their symptoms.11 This is a critical issue as women of menopausal age are the fastest-growing demographic in the workforce today. In 2022, an inquiry in the UK found that “The current law does not serve or protect menopausal women” and called for action. The report looked at symptoms that impacted women in the workplace with the most reported (81%) being 'difficulty sleeping’ and 69% reported depression or anxiety as a symptom. It was also noted by Professor Brewis that menopause symptoms can worsen due to stress caused by the workplace. In the report, the cross-party House of Commons Women and Equalities Committee called for Government to appoint a Menopause Ambassador to represent those experiencing menopause, and advocate for good practice and guidance for employers.12 Post-menopause is considered the final
stage and is generally considered to be 24 to 36 months after menopause, when the symptoms have begun to subside. At this point, women will primarily seek out products that will support their skin following the changes that happened during menopause. Products that are hydrating and seek to protect the skin barrier, and well-ageing products that target visible signs of ageing.
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Hormone beauty Researchers are increasingly studying the effects of hormonal changes during menopause on the skin, which is leading consumers to consider whether similar changes may also occur during the menstrual cycle. This lends itself to our previous conversations on how, while most inclusivity needs can be catered to by producing products that focus on specific skincare needs, there are some aspects of inclusivity that require specialised products to be developed to address consumers’ desires. This may lead the female consumer to demand products that can meet their skincare needs through all of their monthly changes. One aspect of this is hormonal balance,
specifically with regards to the menstrual cycle. This is in part due to the holistic health
conversation increasing consumers’ understanding of how menstrual phases affect energy levels, metabolism, appetite, sleep quality, athletic performance, and mood. This has evolved into a significant market for cycle tracking apps, such as Flo and Clue, to allow people to conduct cycle syncing, aiming to optimise their overall health and wellbeing. The ‘Femtech’ market is no longer
considered niche, and is set to reach a value of $10.1 billion by 2028, with investment already growing from $23 million to $600 million between 2009 and 2019.13, 14 The vast majority of the ‘Femtech’
investment is in reproductive health (95%), whereas only 5% is invested in menopause.15 One such example is Peppy, a digital health platform for employees which offers services around menopause, fertility, and pregnancy. Peppy recently secured a $45 million Series B funding to expand its health services platform to the US.16 This trend was reflected in Pinterest’s
Predicts for 2022, with one of their main topics being ‘Mindful Menstruation’.17
This
demonstrates the progress in the education of the consumer, with an increase in searches
for specific phases of the menstrual cycle, as well as searches for charts and ‘starter kits’. There has also been a sharp increase in the number of consumer products available that are specifically aimed at the menstrual cycle, such as Hot Tea Mama’s Period and Cycle Support Tea, JS Health Vitamin’s Menstrual Kit, and Holland and Barrett’s menstrual diet plans. As the interest from the consumer grows, we
see an increasing demand for research into how skin may be affected by the menstrual cycle. For example, L’Oréal has recently partnered with Clue to advance scientific knowledge on the relationship between skin health and the menstrual cycle.18
There are already various
dermatological reviews of the current research available, which has allowed brands to build blog posts and social media posts surrounding how a consumer may synchronise their skincare routine with their cycle. However, specific conclusions are limited. Nevertheless, brands can make early-
stage conclusions regarding the phase of the menstrual cycle, and how this has an impact on skin. In the Menstrual Phase, low levels of oestrogen and progesterone leads to less sebum, so consumers may suffer with dry, sensitive and blemish prone skin. In the follicular phase, oestrogen begins to increase. Irritation is less common and collagen production is renewed, but skin cells may build up due to the stimulation of cell turnover, and oil production can increase. During ovulation, oestrogen is at a peak.
Collagen production is at its highest, with increased radiance and skin clarity. However, increased luteinising hormone levels can make skin prone to bacterial overgrowth. Finally, in the luteal phase, oestrogen decreases and progesterone and testosterone increase. This leads to a surge in oil and sebum production, as well as the potential for clogged pores and blemishes.
The specific conclusions surrounding each phase have allowed some brands to forge
July 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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