ANTI-AGEING 1


0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1


Untreated control 1% J-DERMIST


Figure 2: Ex vivo visualization of structural integrity of collagen fibres using Kamax technology after seven days treatment with 1% Isodon extract


and unsmiling appearance that may be very impactful for self-esteem of most of people. Gravity is a real strain for skin, impossible to


manage, until leaving the earth. Its impact on skin biology is poorly described, even in case of long- term missions on the International Space Station in zero gravity.12


Reversing gravity effects on skin


ageing might be a new subject of interest for cosmetics and represent a new target for efficacy. In that goal, we identified a plant coming


from Japan. Isodon is a group of flowering plants in the Lamiaceae genus. It is native to tropical and subtropical parts of the Old World, primarily Asia.13


Isodon japonicus presents


interest regarding its high reaching two metres despite its very small, thin and fragile stalks. This shows a square section and presence


of lignin (and precursors); both explaining robustness of the high bearing and the challenge of the gravity laws. We conceived sequence of testing to demonstrate the anti- gravity potential of an extract obtained by 60°C-water extraction of dried aerial parts of Isodon japonicus before filtration and stabilization using glycerine. First, focusing on the components of skin


Dermo-Epidermal Junction (DEJ) and Extra- Cellular Matrix (ECM), the Isodon extract showed a clear improvement of proteins that give biomechanical properties to the skin. These first results were transposed to 3D situations with X-Polar technology applied on explants and in vivo echography measurements. Then, we designed a study to demonstrate the effect of the extract against gravity strains.


Effect of isodon extract on ECM and DEJ In this study, normal human dermal fibroblasts of a 38-year-old donor were incubated in presence of 0.2% Isodon extract for 24 hours. The expression level of genes related to


Untreated control 2% J-DERMIST


Figure 3: Ex vivo visualization of structural density of collagen fibres using Kamax technology after seven days treatment with 2% Isodon extract


proteins and proteoglycans involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin was investigated using RT-qPCR analysis. Results clearly show benefits for the


expression of 3 clusters of genes that were drastically improved by Isodon extract. A first cluster of genes related to collagen


synthesis and maturation with Collagen 1 alpha 1 (+239%), Collagen 3 alpha 1 (+191%), Collagen 5 alpha 1 (+196%), Prolyl 4-hydroxylase alpha polypeptide 1 (+510%), Procollagen C-endopeptidase enhancer (+166%), and Serpin peptidase inhibitor clade H member 1 (+238%). A second cluster of genes related to


glycoproteins and proteoglycans synthesis with Biglycan (+251%), Versican (+213%), Fibronectin 1 (+229%). A third cluster of genes related to the


Dermis-Epidermis Junction composition and anchoring with Integrin beta 1 (+320%), Collagen 4 alpha 1 (+310%), Laminin alpha 4 (+182%) and Nidogen 1 (+287%). Proteins encoded by these genes are not


only involved in the synthesis of ECM and DEJ components but also in their maturation and anchoring. With this global action, this is not only an increase in the density of the matrix that is expected, but also an improvement in the quality of its components as well as an improvement in the architecture of the DEJ.


Effect of isodon extract on collagen The analysis of the structural quality of the ECM has been evaluated using Kamax technologies that provides an innovative approach regarding the structure of collagen fibres. Classical in vitro microscopy approaches are


valid tools to visualize collagen network, but it is difficult to characterize the fibres. For in vivo studies, ultrasound imaging is well described, but qualitative only, requiring volunteers and time. To focus on both spatial density and


structural quality of fibres, Kamax Technologies use XPolar contrasts allowing accurate and complete samples analysis. The birefringence of collagen bundles is studied with a sub- micrometric resolving power. When collagen is irradiated under polarized light, this undergoes modifications that are quantified through the measurement of the phase delay (θ). The device notably delivers a parameter


(Kfs) which quantifies the spatial extent of collagen network on a given field of view. In our study, human skin explants (49 year-old female donor) were treated with topical applications of Isodon extract 1% or 2% for seven days and analysed using Kamax Technologies. Used at 1%, Isodon extract significantly


improves the integrity of the collagen organization by +27%** in the papillary dermis and +60%*** in the reticular dermis (Figure 2). This directly translates a better quality of collagen fibres that can be interpreted as a rejuvenation of collagen integrity. Used at 2%, Isodon extract significantly


improves the collagen density by +138%** in the papillary dermis and +156%**** in the reticular dermis (Figure 3). This analysis of density and structural


organization of collagen fibres in human skin explants confirms that Isodon extract can help to re-densify the dermis, promoting an increase in skin firmness, participating in a decrease of fine or deep wrinkles, and finally allowing the skin to better resist to gravity constraint. These data will be validated by in vivo studies focusing first on the structural quality of the skin, then on the visible signs of ageing.


In vivo analysis of tissue and DEJ architecture In this study, 99 volunteers, divided in three groups (average age: 58) have applied Isodon extract formulated at 1%, 2% or a placebo, twice


31


Figure 4: In vivo visualization of the sinusoid shape of the DEJ (in red) using ultrasound device DUB-scanner 75Mhz, before and after 28 days treatment with Isodon extract


www.personalcaremagazine.com July 2023 PERSONAL CARE


Fibres quality K max


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