SKIN CARE
Retinol-like zinc hexapeptide complex
Iva Dolečková, Paulina Orzol, Kateřina Vašíčková, Sergej Karel, Ludmila Petrovičová, Gloria Huerta-Angeles, Monika Štěpánová, Vladimír Velebný – Contipro
Acne vulgaris is a common chronic skin disease affecting individuals of all ages. The pathogenesis of acne is characterized by four core events: hyperseborrhoea, epithelial hyperkeratinization, Cutibacterium acnes colonization and inflammation.1
Due to
the multifactorial nature of the disease, a combination therapy or use of multifunctional compounds are the preferred approaches. Retinoids are among the most effective
compounds targeting multiple acne-associated pathways.1
However, they often cause negative
adverse effects including skin dryness and irritation.1 Therefore, there is still a need for new, more
effective and safer alternatives. In this study, we evaluated a new hexapeptide in complex with zinc (Zn-peptide) for its ability to inhibit the key acne-related processes in vitro and to improve the appearance of the acne-prone skin in vivo. The effects were compared to its individual components and retinol as the most popular retinoid used in cosmetics.
Materials and methods Zinc hexapeptide complex preparation The hexapeptide was synthesized by the standard solid phase peptide synthesis, purified by HPLC and lyophilized. Zinc sulfate heptahydrate (ZnSO4
*7H2 O) was used for the preparation of the zinc hexapeptide complex.
Evaluation of gene expression by qRT-PCR HaCaT keratinocytes (CLS collection) were treated with Zn-peptide, its individual components hexapeptide and ZnSO4*7H2O of corresponding concentrations; and 10 µM retinol for 72 hours. Then, gene expression of
5α-reductase, type I (SRD5A1) and proteins involved in epidermal keratinization (FLG, OCLN, LCE2C, SPRRE2, KRT10) was determined by standard quantitative, real-time RT-PCR (qRT-PCR). For induction of the pro-inflammatory
interleukins, HaCaT keratinocytes were firstly irradiated with 10 mJ/cm2
UVB and then treated
with the tested compounds as described above for 24 hours. Gene expression of interleukins IL-6 and IL-8 was determined by standard qRT-PCR.
TABLE 1: COMPOSITION OF THE TESTED EMULSIONS USED IN THE IN VIVO STUDY INCI/Ingredients
SPLR Aqua
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E) Carbomer
Sodium Hydroxide Retinol
1
2 3 4 5 6 7
Zinnerine (solution of 1.35 mg/mL Zn-peptide complex; INCI: Aqua, Hexapeptide-2, Zinc sulfate, Phenoxyethanol) 8
Placebo 96.62 0.90 1.00 0.70 0.50 0.25 0.03 -
-
Composition of emulsions (%w/w) Zn-peptide
95.62 0.90 1.00 0.70 0.50 0.25 0.03 -
1.00 Suppliers: 1. ACE Trade 2. Lachner 3: Making Cosmetics 4. Míča a Harašta 5. Lubrizol 6. Lachner 7. Sigma-Aldrich 8. Contipro
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Antimicrobial activity towards C. acnes growing in biofilm Cutibacterium acnes (strain DSM 1897, DSZM collection) growing in biofilms on spikes of microtiter plate lids (Nunc Immuno TSP Lids, Thermo Fisher Scientific) were treated with Zn-peptide complex or its individual components hexapeptide and ZnSO4*7H2O of corresponding concentrations for 24 hours. The lids with spikes covered with treated
biofilms were then transferred to a new microtiter plate with fresh culture medium for 24 hours and the optical density was measured at 590 nm (OD590).
Retinol 96.42 0.90 1.00 0.70 0.50 0.25 0.03 0.20
-
In vivo study We performed a double-blind, placebo- controlled, split-face in vivo study on 40 Caucasian subjects with acne-prone skin. The study was approved by the Contipro´s ethical committee and informed consent was obtained from all participants. The volunteers applied two emulsions with
1% Zinnerine (solution of Zn-peptide complex, its final concentration in the emulsion was 13.5 µg/mL) and placebo (30 subjects, 27 women/3 men, 18-48 years) or 0.2 % retinol and placebo (10 subjects, 9 women/1 man, 24-49 years) on the two respective halves of the face once daily
July 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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