32 ANTI-AGEING
daily, on the whole face, for 28 days. Analysis by ultrasound device DUB-scanner 75 MHz has revealed a significant improvement versus placebo, and with a dose effect in the sinusoid shape of the DEJ (Figure 4). This structural improvement is characteristic
of young skin and guarantee a better dermal- epidermal cohesion as well as improved support capacities. After 28 days of treatment, the density of support fibres in the dermis is visibly increased. A significant increase in the density of the dermis for 1 and 2% Isodon extract can be measured, once again with a dose effect. Volunteers’ self-assessment also reports a significant improvement of the firmness, skin density and plumping effect at D28, for both dosage of Isodon extract. This first in vivo study confirms data obtained
with both genes’ expression analysis and Kamax technologies. Isodon extract re-densifies the skin in supporting fibres with a higher structural quality and rejuvenates the DEJ for better support capacities. Firming and plumping effect observed by volunteers should benefit to a decrease in the visible signs of ageing.
In vivo analysis of wrinkles and gravity constraint This study is focusing on wrinkles that are the more visibly impacted by gravity: nasolabial wrinkles. Indeed, with ageing, skin on nasolabial area is less firm, more subject to the effects of gravity, and stretches without being able to retract, accentuating the depth of wrinkles. Nasolabial wrinkles are therefore the perfect candidates to evaluate the benefits of Isodon extract for the treatment of wrinkles as well as their accentuation by gravity constraint. Thirty-five volunteers have been recruited
(average of 60-years-old), women or men, with visible nasolabial folds. After applying Isodon extract at 2% or a placebo formula twice daily on each hemi-face during 28 days, nasolabial folds parameters have been analysed using 3D Primos Lite.
Analysis of wrinkles depth After 28 days of application, we observe in average a significant decrease of the rugosity parameters Ra, Rz and Rt, from 8% to 10% for the Isodon extract formula whereas no significant variation is observed with the
Figure 5: Visualisation of nasolabial wrinkles and vertical lines above the lips before (A) and after (B) 28 days treatment with 2% Isodon extract
placebo. The difference between placebo and Isodon extract formulas are statistically significant in favour of the formula with 2% of Isodon extract. This analysis validates the ability of Isodon
extract to significantly and visibly decrease nasolabial wrinkles (Figure 5). As previously discussed, the second goal of this study is to evaluate the part of winkle that is directly linked to gravity constraint and to evaluate whether Isodon extract is able to counter balance this constraint.
Evaluation of gravity constraint on wrinkle depth Gravity constraint on nasolabial wrinkles can be visualized and measured by comparing the volume of nasolabial fold in lying position (minimum gravity constraint) and seated position (maximum gravity constraint) (Figures 6 and 7). The difference in volume of the nasolabial
fold between the sitting and lying positions represents the effect of gravity on tissue
Measure of the maximum depth of nasolabial fur (Rt in µm) 0 -50
-100 -150
-200 -250 -300
Effect of gravity: +89 µm depth
Figure 7: Measure of the impact of gravity constraint on the depth of nasolabial wrinkle PERSONAL CARE July 2023 TO-LYING POSITION TO-SEATED POSITION
Figure 6: Nasolabial wrinkles in lying position (minimum gravity constraint) (A), and in seated position (maximum gravity constraint) (B)
relaxation and thus on the depth of wrinkle. Based on the data of our panel, gravity accentuates the maximum depth (Rt) of wrinkles by 89 µm on average. After 28 days treatment, we measure a highest decrease of the gravity constraint on nasolabial furrow amplitude with the Isodon extract than with placebo, respectively of -13% and -3%. If we consider the subjects (n=15) most impacted by gravity constraint, a significant decrease of -28% of the gravity constraint on nasolabial furrow amplitude has been measured. A comparison of the volume of nasolabial
fold before and after treatment. In each position, shows that Isodon extract is able to cumulate both actions: decrease in the volume of wrinkles and decrease in the accentuation of wrinkles by gravity constraint. It is even possible to observe (Figure 8) for some volunteers, a lower volume of wrinkle in seated position (maximum gravity constraint) after treatment with Isodon extract than in lying position (minimum gravity constraint).
Conclusion Directly bioinspired by the ability of Isodon japonicus to stand upright despite the effect of gravity, Isodon extract restores the structural properties of the skin to recover its ability to retract under gravity constraint. The use of the innovative Kamax
technologies enables us to better understand its action mechanism based not only on the quantity of supporting fibres but also on their structural quality as well as a restructuration of the DEJ. Isodon extract significantly improves deep wrinkles while counterbalancing the effect of gravity on the accentuation of the signs of ageing. This action mechanism could also benefit to other areas of the face like upper eyelids and facial contours.
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