RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS WET COMB 0.50 X 0.45 X 0.40 X 0.35 X 0.30 0.25 Base 0.2T 0.4T 0.2PQ10 0.2GHC 0.2PQ7 0.2HPGHC X X X
0.55 0.50 0.45 0.40 0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20
DRY COMB
43
X
X X X X X
X
Base
0.2T
0.4T Figure 4: Results of wet and dry combing test showing performance of Aurist AGC against benchmark polymers
The formulation design is shown in Table 3. Hair combability tests were performed using
an Instron 23-2S according to the following protocol.
Pre-treatment Fifty tresses were prepared from natural Caucasian hair weighing 2.5g each and 25cm long. All tresses underwent a standard pre-
cleaning process with a 10% Sodium Laureth Sulfate solution for one minute, then rinsed with running water.
Base line The wet combability was measured (wet baseline). Then, the tresses were dried for 24 hours in a standardised environment at 55 ±5% relative humidity and 22 ± 2°C. The dry combability was measured (dry baseline). The fifty tresses were split into ten groups, each treated with the model shampoos shown in Table 3.
Measurement Measurements of final wet combability were taken for each tress (wet final). Then, the tresses were dried for 24 hours in a standardised environment at 55 ±5% relative humidity and 22 ±2°C. The dry combability was measured (dry final). The energy dissipated during the combing
process was calculated for the baseline (Einitial) and for the treated tresses (Efinal). Bimodal, paired Student’s t-test (95% confidence interval) analysis of the data showed that the combability energy required to comb the treated tresses (Efinal) was always significantly lower than that required for untreated tresses (Einitial), both when wet and dry combing the hair. To compare the energy values obtained by the various study groups in an easier and
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more insightful manner, the energy Quotient (Q) was calculated: Q = Efinal / Einitial. The Q values obtained were statistically compared using one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s post-test model (95% confidence interval) to compare the samples analysed. Figure 4 shows Q for different dosages of
Aurist AGC (0.2% and 0.4%, active matter) and benchmark. Dosages of 0.2 and 0.4% appear to deliver significant results in combability against base line. The use of 0.2% appears to outperform the benchmark polymers in terms of Dry Combing. However, 0.4% is required to deliver better wet combing than the benchmark polymers. Considering that Aurist AGC does not
contribute to increasing the viscosity of the system, and neither does it require special steps to enable its hydration (for example, addition of acids in case of non-self-hydrating quaternised guar gum derivatives), one could argue that its use at 0.4% could anyway be more convenient than some of the benchmark polymers. From these preliminary studies, we can conclude Aurist AGC has superior performance attributes as a conditioning polymer and is also readily biodegradable.
Conclusion In this article, we have discussed a collection of tests to substantiate some of the interesting properties of two biopolymers that each embody the potential of different types of biopolymers for the future of personal care. Aurist GHI, an unmodified guar gum, can be used as an effective natural rheology modifier that also reduces the typical tackiness and stickiness of other commonly used natural polymers (e.g. xanthan gum, cellulose gum, some starches, etc.). Aurist AGC, an innovative readily
biodegradable α -glucan polymer obtained by IFF’s proprietary Designed Enzymatic
Biopolymers (DEB) technology, can deliver conditioning properties that are comparable, if not superior, to those of benchmark polymers.
Though preliminary, these results align with modern formulation trends, such as a more consistent use of naturally-sourced ingredients without compromising on performance and sensory aspects, which are both fundamental elements to meet current consumer needs. These ingredients illustrate how the
future of the performance-oriented personal care industry lies in the combination of extracted and new generations of designed biopolymers that are biobased and readily biodegradable.
0.2PQ10 0.2GHC 0.2PQ7 0.2HPGHC
PC
References 1. Savary et al. Impact of Polymers on texture properties of cosmetic emulsions: A methodological approach. Journal of Sensory Studies. 2012; 27, 392-402
2. Loh XJ (ed.). Polymers for Personal Care Products and Cosmetics. 2016
3. Barnes HA, Hutton JF, Walters K. An Introduction to Rheology. 1989. Elsevier Amsterdam
4. Laba D (ed.). Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries. 1993. Marcel Dekker Inc.
5. Suzuki K et al. J. Texture Stud. 1971; 2(4), 431-440 6. Imbart S et al. Cosmetics. 2022; 9(4), 84 7. Braun DB, Rosen MR. Rheology Modifiers Handbook – Practical Use and Application. 1989. William Andrew Publishing
8. Glass E, Schulz DN, Zukoski CF (eds.). Polymers as Rheology Modifiers. 1991, vol 462. ACS Publications
9. James VG. Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care. 1999. CRC Press
10. Baker CWet al. Carbohydr. Res. 1975; 45, 237-243
July 2023 PERSONAL CARE
Q=Efinal / Einitial
Q=Efinal / Einitial
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