PRESERVATIVES
Using magnolia bark in multifunctionals
Myo-Deok Kim – Activon
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Preservation of personal care products containing water and organic/inorganic ingredients is necessary to prevent spoilage that subsequently can cause severe health risks for consumers. One of the major concerns in personal care products is product spoilage causing microbial contamination. Personal care products have a nutrient- rich medium that favours the growth of microorganisms. Microbial contamination may occur while being manufactured or when consumers use the products. Therefore, preservative systems are used in personal care products to prevent microbial spoilage, improve the shelf life of the product, and protect consumers against adverse microbial infection.1 One of the most common approaches used is the addition of preservatives such as paraben, which are esters of 4-parahydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA). Formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones, triclosan, urea-based preservatives are also commonly used as preservatives in personal care products. However, the use of popular preservatives
has become controversial. Paraben is involved in endocrine disruptors and may make women more prone to developing estrogen positive breast cancer.2 Meanwhile, formaldehyde releasers, which
are added to shampoo, soaps, nail polishes, hair dyes, and conditioners have side-effects
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of formadehyde exposure. Formaldehyde is considered as a strong allergen, and contact with this preservative may induce chronic allergic eczema. It has been observed that using skincare products containing a low amount of
formaldehyde (2.5 ˜ 400 ppm) in people with allergies led to dermatitis.3 The debate has been further heightened
by the growing popularity of pro-ecological and healthy lifestyle trends. It is not surprising that personal care product formulators have introduced alternative preservatives as safer than paraben.4 The following strategies are implemented
to efficiently control microbial contamination, and minimise adverse health effects from preservatives: (1) replacement of preservatives with other chemical or natural alternatives; (2) formulation of the mixtures of preservatives with other alternatives; and (3) preparation of the composite mixtures of various alternatives to the preservative-free system. Consequently, preference for ‘preservative-free’ and ‘self- preserving’ products is a rising trend among consumers.
Multifunctional ingredients Multifunctional ingredients are defined as single ingredients that have more than one function in personal care product formulations. Multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial
ABSTRACT
In this study, we investigate the efficiency of Magnolia officinalis bark extract and heptyl undecylenate (A-Silkne) in antimicrobial activity and preservative effects. The results of this study demonstrate that A-Silkne has a good preservative effect as a natural-derived antimicrobial agent, and is particularly synergic with various preservatives. In addition, A-Silkne was found to have potential efficacy for anti-acne and similar skin feel to silicone oils. With this study, it is concluded that A-Silkne, as a multifunctional ingredient, can be an excellent alternative, reducing the use of higher doses of chemical/synthetic preservatives that are often associated with sensitivity and allergic reactions.
activity are seen as potential alternatives. As these ingredients are not designed
to be preservatives, they tend to be either antimicrobial or preservative boosters. These types of ingredients can help formulators reduce chemical inventory, reduce formula complications, and improve ease of manufacture. In recent years, therefore, formulators have taken a greater interest in multifunctional ingredients.
July 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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