28 PRESERVATIVES Spreadability preference Overall
5 4 3 2 1
No-irritation Absorption
■ Silicone oil 5% ■ A-Silkne 5% ■ Without A-Silkne
l Sample: Oil balm
l Volunteer: Aged 20˜50, men/women, 10 people
l Method : A questionnaire survery performed after applying it onto the back of bands
Moisturizing
Spreadability Absorption Moisturizing
Film formation Irritation
Feeling after use (Fresh and Soft)
Figure 4: Blind sensory test of A-Silkne
use was confirmed as compared to the same amount of silicone oil (dimethicone). In the sensory comparison analysis, A-Silkne showed performance attributes required for enhancing the sensory profile of oil balm formulation. Therefore, these sensory results show that A-Silkne can be used as plant-derived biodegradable ingredient to replace synthetic silicone oil.
Safety of A-Silkne To verify the good cutaneous compatibility of the investigational A-Silkne, after single application, patch test was conducted on 33 adult testees aged 20-60s.8
The application
of the investigational A-Silkne was performed on the back - between the hips and the shoulders - free from any macroscopic trace of irritation or from any abnormality (scars, moles, freckles), which could interfere with the interpretation of the results. The patches were applied to the back of the subjects for 24 hours. Grading was performed at 30 minutes and
24 hours after patch removal, to the naked eye and a magnifying glass. For data analysis, the calculation of the primary cutaneous irritation (PCI) index, calculated for 30 minutes and 24 hours allowed for determining the A-Silkne compatibility with the skin (Figure 5). As a result, A-Silkne was a no-irritant and
safe ingredient even at a concentration of 100%. Consequently, A-Silkne was very low
irritation compared to the commonly used preservative boosting ingredients such as 1,2-alkanediol or acne treat ingredients such as salicylic acid.
Conclusion In conclusion, the study found A-Silkne inhibits the growth of microorganisms, including fungi and acne-causing bacteria. Therefore A-Silkne can be recommended as a candidate for effective an alternative preservative system. This shows that A-Silkne can be simultaneously replaced the use of synthetic preservatives or silicone oils. In addition, it was analyzed by
sensory test and patch test which leads to an excellent feeling-after-use and no- irritation, respectively. These interesting results demonstrate that A-Silkne is a new multifunctional ingredient for personal care products that is effective as an anti-microbial, and this can be feasible to resolve the sensitive skin issues occurring by the mask regularly used in COVID-19 situations.
2. Lee, Sung-Hoon et al. Oestrogenic activity of parabens in vitro estrogen assays. Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety. 21.2 (2006): 100-106
3. Hauksson I et al. Skincare products containing low concentrations of formaldehyde detected by the chromotropic acid method cannot be safely used in formaldehyde-allergic patients. British Journal of Dermatology. 174.2 (2016): 371-379
4. Nowak K et al. Parabens and their effects on the endocrine system. Molecular and cellular endocrinology. 474 (2018): 238-251
5. Jackelin de Lima Cherubim D et al. Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 19.1 (2020): 33-37
6. Cha HyeMin et al. Lactobacillus paraplantarum THG-G10 as a potential anti-acne agent with anti-bacterial and anti- inflammatory activities. Anaerobe. 64 (2020): 102243
PC
References 1. Smith CN, Alexander BR. The relative cytotoxicity of personal care preservative systems in Balb/C 3T3 clone A31 embryonic mouse cells and the effect of selected preservative systems upon the toxicity of a standard rinse-off formulation. Toxicology in vitro. 19.7 (2005): 963-969
P.C.I
A-Silkne Conc. (%, w/w)
Squalene Figure 5: Safety of A-Silkne PERSONAL CARE July 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
2% (in squalene) 10% (in squalene) 100%
0.00 0.00 0.02 0.00
Conclusion No-irritant No-irritant No-irritant No-irritant
P.C.I. =
7. Goussard V, Aubry J-M, Nardello-Rataj V. Bio-based alternatives to volatile silicones: Relationships between chemical structure, physicochemical properties and functional performances. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science. 2022: 102679
8. ICH/GCP, ICH Harmonized Tripartite Guideline, Guideline for Good Clinical Practice E6 (R1). Canary Publication. Surrey, UK. 1996
The P.C.I. was calculated according to the following formula: Σ Grade of each subject
P.C.I
Number of subjects x number of readings Application
0 ≤ P.C.I. ≤0.05 0.05 < P.C.I. ≤0.15 0.15 < P.C.I. ≤0.5 > 0.5
No-irritant Slight irritant
Moderate irritant Strong irritant
Film formation
Overall preference
Very Good ˜ 1 points Very Good ˜ Very Bad Very Good ˜ Very Bad Very Good ˜ Very Bad
5 points
Feeling after use Fresh and Soft
No-irritant Very Good
˜ Very Bad ˜ Sticky ˜ Irritating ˜ Very Bad
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