42 RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS Stickiness (At pick up) (20 min. after application) Residual Feel
20 15 10 5 0
Formula A■ Formula B■
(immediate during application)
Stickiness
Stickiness (20 min. after application) Figure 3: Results of sensory assessment performed on Formula A and B
off the surface at a speed of 0.1 mm/s while measuring the force throughout. The pull-off test measures the force required to move a probe away from a thin film of sample; this can give an approximative evaluation of the tackiness of a material, which consumers usually perceive and describe as stickiness. The peak force (g) is shown in Figure 2,
showing that Formula B appears to be less tacky than Formula A. Because the sensation of stickiness of a
topical product is very subjective and majorly affected by skin type and environmental conditions, a sensory assessment was performed on the two products to evaluate whether the consumer’s perception would align with the instrumental results of the pull-off test. Nine trained sensory assessors evaluated
Formula A and B for stickiness and after- application feel at various time points. The results shown in Figure 3 highlight a good correlation with the pull-off test, with Formula B being perceived as less sticky than Formula A. Formula B was also deemed to leave a
less perceivable residual film on the skin, which could be a good indication that such phenomena as piling or balling could be improved by using guar gum.
Conditioning polymers Conditioning polymers, for example, polyquats and quaternised guar gum derivatives, can deliver several benefits, including but not limited to improvement of skin feel and hair manageability, reduction of electrostatic charges, and softening of the skin and the hair. These are all made possible by such
properties as deposition, adherence, and absorption that conditioning polymers can exert to different degrees of efficacy, depending on their chemical structure and characteristics,
PERSONAL CARE July 2023
most notably the cationic charge and the molecular weight. However, not all conditioning polymers, either synthetic or naturally sourced have good environmental credentials, particularly in terms of biodegradability and aquatic toxicity.
Innovative α-glucan-derived conditioning polymer Aurist AGC is a novel, cationic biodegradable conditioning biopolymer that has shown to deliver perceivable conditioning benefit on hair, and improve combability. The ingredient belongs to an innovative class of α-glucan polysaccharides derived from IFF’s Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) technology applied to the polymerisation of glucose obtained from sucrose with controlled morphology and structure.
These α -glucan molecules have high purity,
and thanks to the enzymatic polymerization processes, a multitude of tailored morphologies and functional modifications are accessible, including addition of polar/non-polar, charged, and other functionalities. Such specificity has not been seen before in the field of biopolymer derivatisation. The conditioning properties of Aurist AGC
have been investigated in a model shampoo in comparison to benchmark polymers. The samples formulated are: BASE (no polymers), 0.2T and 0.4T (0.2% and 0.4% AuristTM AGC), 0.2PQ10 (0.2% Polyquaternium-10), 0.2GHC (0.2% Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), 0.2PQ7 (0.2% Polyquaternium-7), and 0.2HPGHC (0.2% Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride). All percentages are on an active matter basis.
TABLE 3: FORMULATION PLAN FOR THE MODEL SHAMPOOS UTILISED TO ASSESS CONDITIONING PROPERTIES OF AURIST AGC
Ingredients Water
Disodium EDTA Aurist AGC
Polyquaternium-10
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Polyquaternium-7
Hydroxypropyl Guar hydroxy-propyl trimonium Chloride
Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Laureth Sulfate Phenoxyethanol Sodium Chloride Citric Acid
2.00 12.00 0.80 1.50
QS to approx. pH 5.5
www.personalcaremagazine.com 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.20 0.40 Base 0.2T 0.4T
% W/W (Active matter) 0.2PQ10
QS to 100 0.10
0.00 0.20
0.00 0.00 0.20 0.00
0.20 0.00
0.00 0.00 0.20 0.2GHC 0.2PQ7 0.2HPGHC
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