COVER STORY: SILAB ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE


Inclusivity for a plural beauty


Driven by the emergence of the concept of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), the reprioritization of individual needs progressively drew a new face to beauty, where every individual neither feels excluded nor marginalized. This approach now extends beyond skin color to encompass the specific characteristics of each ethnic group, gender, or stage of life. The study of these structural and functional skin specificities led to a strong response in dermatology, allowing the cosmetic industry to exalt a ‘plural beauty’: more homogeneous, less codified and less stereotyped.


Universal expectations in skin care Recently, SILAB developed a specific approach to this topic: the main skin characteristics of consumers according to ethnicity, gender, and age were identified in order to outline the profile of a universal beauty. Three expectations stand out: ■ A beautiful skin quality (characterized by skin hydration and fine skin texture for a smoothed microrelief); ■ An even, radiant complexion (free from spots related to post-inflammatory scars and skin ageing); ■ Reduced signs of ageing (thanks to firmer skin and faded wrinkles). These central pillars of beauty are run by


biological mechanisms taking effect in the dermis and epidermis. In light of this, SILAB has decided to focus on a cross-disciplinary approach to efficacy in order to develop a natural active ingredient with large-scale cosmetic benefits: INCLUSIUM®.


A dual action on the dermis and epidermis To demonstrate the active ingredient’s versatility and its action on the biological


D0 February 2024 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


A wide range of cosmetics benefits on multi-panels In addition, five clinical studies were specifically designed in collaboration with experts from four different countries. Tested on panels of different genders, ages, and ethnicities (Afro-Americans, Latin-Americans, Caucasians and Asians), INCLUSIUM® provides multiple cosmetic benefits, including: ■ Hydra-smoothing power: the skin is hydrated, and its microrelief smoothed as of seven days of application (Figure 1); ■ Complexion-perfecting effect: the complexion is even and radiant as of seven days of treatment; ■ Anti-ageing action: wrinkles are reduced in just seven days, and the skin regains its firmness after 21 days of application.


Interview: Bloom Regulatory founder Olivia Santoni


In focus: Sun care, Skin care


pathways essential for epidermal and dermal functions, SILAB drew on its expertise in tissue engineering and transcriptomics for gene expression analysis. Thanks to a broad exploratory study, it has been established that INCLUSIUM® improves the epidermal functionalities by regulating the expression of markers associated with the physical and water barrier, the immune barrier, and to the anchoring of the epidermis to the dermis. On volunteers, these results translate into improved barrier function and cell renewal. The active ingredient also strengthens the matrix quality of the dermis by stimulating collagen I synthesis and limiting its degradation by metalloproteinase-1. In vivo, these activities result in an increased dermal density.


YOUNG LATIN-AMERICAN PANEL D21, after treatment with INCLUSIUM® at 2.5%


Alfalfa, a plant with multiple properties For this development, SILAB has chosen to master the remarkable properties of alfalfa, one of its historic natural raw materials, which has already demonstrated its beneficial action on the epidermis and dermis. SILAB has selected two French agricultural


cooperatives with several organic-certified farms, with which it has set up cultivation contracts. This strategy ensures the security and traceability of supplies right down to the plot, while guaranteeing the economic sustainability of the supply chain.


The richness of alfalfa seeds in


polysaccharides was exploited to obtain the galactomannans of interest. They were extracted using a targeted hydrolysis process, followed by a purification stage to increase the purity of the active molecule of interest. Based on transversality, INCLUSIUM® is a


multifunctional natural active ingredient that acts as of seven days, responding rapidly and over the long term to universal cosmetic expectations. A patented active ingredient recommended


at a dose of 0.5 to 2.5%, it is available in aqueous solution, and is easy to formulate. With a natural origin content of 99.2% (ISO 16128), it complies with biodiversity regulations and with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).


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Silab Visibility of pores: ++ Visibility of pores: + Figure 1: Effect of INCLUSIUM® on the visibility of pores in young Latin-American volunteers www.personalcaremagazine.com


ZI de la Nau, 19240 Saint-Viance, France Tel: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40 silab@silab.fr www.silab.fr


February 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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