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NEWS


LabEx launches organic version of flagship active


French cosmetics ingredient maker Laboratoires Expanscience has taken the wraps off an organic version of its flagship active, CO2


llageneer. CO2


llageneer Bio is an anti-


ageing, remodelling and firming active ingredient 100% made in France, certified organic and upcycled. The new ingredient is based


on a concentration of lupeol, extracted from French sweet white lupin seeds from western France. This active molecule is then


combined with organic oleic sunflower oil, sourced in France. Laboratoires Expanscience


said in vitro tests demonstrate the effects of the active ingredient as


well-ageing, stimulating collagen synthesis to improve skin elasticity, remodel and firm areas prone to sagging.


The active ingredient stimulates


the production of quality collagen by activating the HSP47 (Heat


Shock Protein) chaperone protein, thus contributing to its organisation and optimal structure. In addition, CO2


llageneer Bio is


part of an upcycling and zero- waste approach, as it is derived from a co-product of the food industry. “At Expanscience, our


environmental commitment is at the heart of our approach,” said cosmetic active ingredients director Armelle Le Peniec. “With CO2


llageneer Bio, we


combine innovation, naturality and sustainability to offer our consumers an even more responsible beauty solution that is kind to the skin and the planet,” she added.


Bloomage Biotech debuts emulsion


Chinese personal care ingredient maker Bloomage Biotech unveiled its Bloomsurfact EncapCare RP emulsion anti-ageing solution at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 77th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase (SCC77) in New York. Bloomsurfact EncapCare RP


uses retinyl propionate to minimize skin sensitivity while retaining the full anti-ageing benefits of retinol. Lab results have shown that it


promotes collagen I production by 69% and elastin generation by 14%. In a seven-day patch test, the solution was shown to reduce


crow’s feet visibility by 28.6% and eye wrinkles by 20%, with even more pronounced results after 30 days – 46.9% and 34% reduction respectively. By using Bloomage’s patented


ingredient dispersion technology with the Bloomsurfact Sodium Surfactin, EncapCare RP ensures high bioavailability, high stability and low irritation – much more friendly for sensitive skin. Additionally, Bloomsurfact boasts high storage stability, ultra- violet stability, bioavailability and lower toxicity.


These characteristics allow


Bloomsurfact EncapCare RP to be easily integrable for cosmetic manufacturers, capable of retaining 90% of retinyl propionate after 30 days of dark storage at 50°C. It is also 48% more UV-resistant compared to pure retinyl propionate. “The announcement of the


Bloomsurfact EncapCare RP dovetails with the rising consumer demand for powerful, safe and comfortable anti-aging cosmetic solutions, and we’re proud to unveil it at SCC77 alongside other exceptional circumstances,” it said.


BYK launches personal care additives


The care applications business of German speciality chemicals outfit BYK is expanding its personal care portfolio. BYK has launched its own


range of additives for personal care and beauty cosmetics that was previously marketed by sister company Eckart. The personal care portfolio includes solutions for the control of sensory properties, gloss, stabilization, emulsification and flow behaviour, which significantly improve the properties of natural cosmetics, hair care, shampoos,


PERSONAL CARE February 2024


development of home care, I&I and personal care. Home and personal care are characterized by similar trends and developments,” the company said in a statement. “This puts BYK in the position


face masks, antiperspirants, nail polish and creams. “BYK is growing in the


personal care sector through innovations and hopes to achieve improved market access thanks to strong synergies in the product


of being able to target new developments directly, engaging in the market as a larger supplier and a development partner in close proximity to customers,” it added. “Its in-house personal care


applications laboratory has direct access to the BYK Group’s global network of sophisticated R&D labs.”


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Berg+Schmidt takes wraps off rheology modifier


Berg+Schmidt launched BergaCare FG Gel, a natural rheology modifier ingredient designed for transparent oil formulations for leave-on and rinse-off products, at the Cosmet’Agora trade show in Paris last month. Being cold processible, the


rheology modifier requires a certain shear so that it can be distributed homogeneously in the oil. This, says the German


manufacturer, makes BergaCare FG Gel ideally suited for the ‘go-to development’ of transformational textures and a variety of viscosities such as gel-to-oil products. Natural thixotropic properties


enable it to optimally convert liquid oil in Jello-like textures, the company adds. “While formulators can already choose between different oil thickeners on the market, none of them is cold-processible, so this is clearly a huge advantage when considering ever-increasing energy costs,” said care ingredients application technologies manager Sabrina Paltian. “Only a few natural oil thickeners


can actually create transparent systems,” she added. To ensure that BergaCare FG Gel


together with the selected oil creates a homogeneous mixture, a certain amount of shear force is required for the manufacturing process. It is up to the formulator to


decide which tool is used to generate this force. BergaCare FG Gel is highly compatible with numerous stirring devices. While being highly compatible


with commonly used vegetable oils and emollients, the easy-to- use rheology modifier has the ability to create different viscosities depending on the use level of the BergaCare FG Gel. Visual appearance of the finished


product can be adjusted from a transparent oil gel to dense, yet light, cream, or from fluid oil to solidified gel.


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