SUN CARE BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZYLMETHANE
BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
BENZOPHENONE-3
37
Figure 11: Crystallisation of organic UV filters shown by polarised light microscopy, Butyl Methoxydibenzylmethane (left), Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (middle), Benzophenone-3 (right)
of crystalline UV filters in real time by means of polarisation microscopy.
Conclusion By delving into crucial aspects such as slide preparation, timeframes for analysis, incompatibilities, droplet size, and the nuanced impact of mineral UV filters, this article has underscored the invaluable contributions of microscopy in uncovering microstructural intricacies that elude the naked eye. Understanding and interpreting microscope images however does necessitate a level of training that any scientist can undertake. Formulators must create their own library of
microscopy images by continuously examining images of raw materials and failed systems, becoming acquainted with the nuances present in these images. This process allows them to familiarize themselves with various patterns and features, training their eyes to discern relevant details when analysing images. Furthermore, formulators are encouraged
to collaborate closely with their suppliers. This collaborative approach facilitates a more profound understanding of the UV filters used,
O/W Emulsion with precipitated PBSA O/W Emulsion with precipitated PBSA
20x magnification under unpolarised light
20x magnification under polarised light Figure 12: PBSA crystals under unpolarised light (left) and polarised light (right)
especially when working with mineral UV filters of various particles sizes and shapes, and ultimately elevates the overall quality and efficacy of sunscreens in the ever-evolving landscape of cosmetic science.
References 1. Tadros TF. Emulsions: Formation, Stability, Industrial Applications, Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG, Technology & Engineering, 2016
2. Lucassen-Reynders EH. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochemical and Engineering Aspects,
TABLE 1: SOLUBILITY STUDY OF CRODA EMOLLIENTS AND ORGANIC UV FILTERS EMOLLIENT
INCI NAME Arlamol HD Isohexadecane
Crodamol CAP
Crodamol EO
Crodamol GTCC
Crodamol GTEH
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol STS
Cromollient DP3A
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (and) Isopropyl Myristate
Ethyl Oleate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Triethylhexanoin
PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
DI-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate
www.personalcaremagazine.com 15 15 15 20 BENZOPHENONE-3 5 10 15 20 5 10 15 15 15 15 15 15 MAXIMUM SOLUBILITY (%)
BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 5 5 15 20 20 20 25 25 10 February 2024 PERSONAL CARE 15
BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
5 15 15 20 20 25
Competitive adosprtion of emulsifiers 1. Theory for adsorption of small and large molecules. pp79, 1994
PC
3.
https://www.britannica.com/science/light/ Unpolarized-light
4. 33rd IFSCC Congress. Souza A. Use of Cryo- SEM and EDS for sunscreen characterization: observation of the mineral UV filters in W/O and O/W emulsion systems, 2023
5. Challenges in Sun Protection. Hanay C, Osterwalder U. Challenges in Formulating Sunscreen Products pp 101, 2021
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