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30 SUN CARE


the environmental impact, health concerns, and supply shortages associated with conventional UV filters, exploring sustainable alternatives becomes imperative. Lignin, derived from forestry and wood


processing waste, emerges as a promising solution due to its abundance and the utilization of green chemistry techniques. The transformation of lignin into CLP overcomes inherent hurdles, such as heterogeneity, making it a viable option for cosmetic applications. The demonstrated SPF-boosting efficacy of CLP in sunscreen formulations, achieving up to a 50% increase in SPF points, underscores their potential to improve the efficacy and sustainability of sun protection products. The successful demonstration of CLP as


SPF boosters not only marks a significant advancement in cosmetic technology but also aligns with the growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly beauty solutions. Based on the research, Lignovations has


developed a commercial CLP dispersion marketed as LignoGuard®. This multifunctional cosmetic ingredient is made from upcycled biomass and has received COSMOS and NaTrue approval.


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3. Tian XQ, Chen TC, Matsuoka LY, Wortsman J, Holick MF. Kinetic and thermodynamic studies of the conversion of previtamin D3 to vitamin D3 in human skin. Journal of Biological Chemistry. 268(20), 14888–14892; 1993


4. Yangmyung M, Jinah Y. History of sunscreen: An updated view. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 20(4), 1044–1049; 2021


5. Sabzevari N, Qiblawi S, Norton SA, Fivenson D. Sunscreens: UV filters to protect us: Part 1: Changing regulations and choices for optimal sun protection. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology. 7(1), 28–44; 2021


6. Shaath N. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development. Third Edition. Taylor & Francis Group. 2005


7. Downs CA, Kramarsky-Winter E, Segal R, Fauth J, Knutson S, Bronstein O, Ciner FR, Jeger R, Lichtenfeld Y, Woodley CM, Pennington P, Cadenas K, Kushmaro A, Loya Y. Toxicopathological Effects of the Sunscreen UV Filter, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3), on Coral Planulae and Cultured Primary Cells and Its Environmental Contamination in Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology. 70(2), 265–288; 2016


8. Brown J. Sunscreen: What science says about ingredient safety. 2019


9. Rehfeld A, Egeberg DL, Almstrup K, Petersen JH, Dissing S, Skakkebaek NE. EDC IMPACT: Chemical UV filters can affect human sperm function in a progesterone-like manner. Endocrine Connections. 7, 16–25; 2018


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PERSONAL CARE February 2024 PC their photocatalytic transformation products


11. Huang Y, Law JC-F, Lam T-K, Leung KS- Y. Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies. Science of the Total Environment. 755(Pt 1), 142486; 2021


12. Downs CA, DiNardo JC, Stien D, Rodrigues AMS, Lebaron P. Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products. Chemical Research in Toxicology. 34(4), 1046–1054; 2021


13. US Food and Drug Administration. FDA advances new proposed regulation to make sure that sunscreens are safe and effective. 2019


14. Khan GB, Akhtar N, Khan MF, Ullah Z, Tabassum S, Tedesse Z. Toxicological impact of Zinc Nano Particles on tilapia fish (Oreochromis mossambicus). Saudi Journal of Biological Sciences. 29(2), 1221–1226; 2022


15. Shaath NA. SPF Boosters Photostability of Ultraviolet Filters. 2007


16. Li L, Chong L, Huang T, Ma Y, Li Y, Ding H. Natural products and extracts from plants as natural UV filters for sunscreens: A review. Animal Models and Experimental Medicine. 6, 183–195; 2023


17. Yarovaya L, Khunkitti W. Effect of grape seed extract as a sunscreen booster. Songklanakarin Journal of Science & Technology. 41(3), 708–715; 2019


18. Serna-Loaiza S et al. A Review on the Feedstocks for the Sustainable Production of Bioactive Compounds in Biorefineries. Sustainability. 11(23), 6765; 2019


19. Chauhan PS, Agrawal R, Satlewal A, Kumar R, Gupta RP, Ramakumar SSV. Next generation applications of lignin derived commodity products, their life cycle, techno-economics and societal analysis. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules. 197, 179–200; 2022


20. Puglia D, Santulli C, Sarasini F. Micro and Nano Lignin in Aqueous Dispersions and Polymers. Elsevier 12(6); 2020


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22 Brienza F, Cannella D, Montesdeoca D, Cybulska I, Debecker DP. A guide to lignin valorization in biorefineries: traditional, recent, and forthcoming approaches to convert raw lignocellulose into valuable materials and chemicals. RSC Sustainability. 2023


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TABLE 1: SAMPLE FORMULATION FOR A TINTED SUNSCREEN WITH ORGANIC FILTERS AND SPF 50+ Phase


Ingredients W I Water deion.


W II LignoGuard Aqua 20 W III Solagum


O I Tinsorb S Cetiol B Cetiol AB MCT


O II Montanov 202 Eumulgin SG UV-Filter Tinosorb M W = water phase, O = oil phase


Procedure - Combined Hot/Cold Process:Mix Phase OI and heat up to 80°C, stir for 15 minutes (Beaker A). Add Phase OII to Phase OI (Beaker A) and heat it up to 80°C stir for 5-10 minutes. Heat Phase WI to 60°C (Beaker B). Add Phase WII (LignoGuard) into Phase WI (Beaker B) homogenize at 10,000rpm (30s). Add Oil Phase (Beaker A) into the Water Phase (Beaker B) and homogenize at 10,000rpm (˜3 minutes). Add UV-Filter Phase and homogenize well for another 2 minutes.


INCI Water Glycerin


Water, Lignin (20% CLP), Pentylene Glycol Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum Pentylene Glycol


Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol-Methoxyphenyl Triazine Dibutyl Adipate


C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride


Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucosides


Cetearylalcohol Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate


Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphe- nol (nano) (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum


w/w (%) 45.9 3


15


0.3 3 5 5 6 2


3 1


0.8 10


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